The road bike standard seems to have settled on 12mm through axles.
It has, but there's a reasonable amount of variance in overall axle length and amount of threaded/unthreaded shaft, even between bikes supposedly using the same standard; Shimano's eThru for example. This can cause compatibility issues so check carefully when assessing whether a wheel/fork/frame/axle combo will work and ideally get a ruler/calipers on a physical sample.
Also, thru axles do not mean the wheel will centre and locate perfectly every time, especially in forks where the dropouts vary in how positively they capture and locate the axle ends. You still need to check the wheel by eye - you'll soon know if it's p!$$ed as the disc will rub.
As for the cam-lock type, I find setting the correct tension and aligning the lever where it won't get flipped open if snagged can be a right PITA. I much prefer the twist-lock type, either with the clockable lever or hex-fastening. These are far easier to use with a contrary fork as well, as per the above dropout consideration. The clockable twist-lever type also makes it easy to see if the axle is backing out if you align it with a stay/fork leg.
