This will prove to me the cycle has had the attention to detail

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Freddyflintstone

New Member
The ends of brake & gear cables that have a crimp/lug fitted to stop the strands unwinding.
The number of quality cycles I have seen with the crimp/lug crimped with a pair of side cutters
or bashed with a hammer.
Does anyone know the type of lug/crimp that should be used and the type of crimper that should be used.
I think a crimp, crimped correctley adds workmanship to an item
It's just that I am in the electrical industry. A loomed panel with crimps looks a work of art
when carried out by an experienced engineer.

OR should we just say "Whats up, it works- who care's its untidy"
 

angeleye

Active Member
i use the same crimping tool that i use for making pike traces before i go fishing, works a treat and i agree it finishes the job nicely,
 

palinurus

Velo, boulot, dodo
Location
Watford
I used to cut my cables to size, flux them and seal the ends in a solder pot. Then file off the excess.

Mainly because I could never find my crimps, but I always knew where the solder pot was.
 
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Freddyflintstone

Freddyflintstone

New Member
I used to cut my cables to size, flux them and seal the ends in a solder pot. Then file off the excess.

Mainly because I could never find my crimps, but I always knew where the solder pot was.
Thats one way
Curious about solder on steel - What flux did you use ?
 

palinurus

Velo, boulot, dodo
Location
Watford
(meant to quote Freddy F. there. "Thats one way
Curious about solder on steel - What flux did you use ?")

A bit of a "special". I work in in an R&D lab, I whisked up a flux consisting of a good amount of zinc chloride in a base of a mixture of different molecular weight polyglycols. And a bit of water to help the zinc chloride to dissolve.

Not really sure if the solder wet the steel or not- perhaps it just wicks up a little way and sticks to itself (I've never sectioned one end and checked!). Whatever happens it stops them fraying.

There are a few fluxes available to get soft solder to wet steel, Google Arax flux. They are pretty aggressive
 

Bicycle

Guest
Whenever I buy brake cables, the LBS man hands me cable-end thingies and I wave them away. His look of profound disappointment is a picture in itself.

Usually I snip the cable to length, but sometimes I loop and twist a too-long cable at the brake end. It ends up looking like a hastily re-stringed guitar.

When I pull the lever, my bicycle slows or stops, depending on the pressure applied and my speed at the time. That's all I ask of my brakes.

I know I am a fillystein; I just can't spell it. :sad:
 
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Freddyflintstone

Freddyflintstone

New Member
(meant to quote Freddy F. there. "Thats one way
Curious about solder on steel - What flux did you use ?")

A bit of a "special". I work in in an R&D lab, I whisked up a flux consisting of a good amount of zinc chloride in a base of a mixture of different molecular weight polyglycols. And a bit of water to help the zinc chloride to dissolve.

Not really sure if the solder wet the steel or not- perhaps it just wicks up a little way and sticks to itself (I've never sectioned one end and checked!). Whatever happens it stops them fraying.

There are a few fluxes available to get soft solder to wet steel, Google Arax flux. They are pretty aggressive

I know its possible, especially seeing steel battery caps soldered to copper cables
Now I know about Arax flux - Many Thanks
 

Paul.G.

Just a bloke on a bike!
Location
Reading
Did you know that some pro and top notch mechanics specifically use side cutters to crimp the ends as a way of "marking" thier work.
 

subaqua

What’s the point
Location
Leytonstone
I use the pin lug crimping tool for sub 1.0mmsq cables i have from too many years as a Electrician. have been known to use pin lugs if i can't find ends in the bit box
 
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Freddyflintstone

Freddyflintstone

New Member
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