Stripped mudguard eyelets

[cyberknight]

The ribble rebuild has been used as a commuter for the last few weeks due to issues with the LBS sourcing and fitting incorrect chainring on the disc road bike but the eyelets for the mudgaurd / pannier rack seem to be made if cheese and have no thread worth a damn .I am not sure you can use p clips as weight bearing ?


Does anyone know if you can get them rethreaded or has anyone any experience with this sort of rack ?

 

[Ajax Bay]

Assuming this is a threaded hole going all the way through, use a bolt and a nyloc nut in the threaded but stripped thread, drilled out if necessary. A much stronger solution.

 

[T.M.H.N.E.T]

Could repair with the right kit (M4?) or as Ajax says, bolt and nyloc nut

 

[Darius_Jedburgh]

What size are they? M4? Run an M5 tap through the hole. Job sorted.

 

[cyberknight]

Assuming this is a threaded hole going all the way through, use a bolt and a nyloc nut in the threaded but stripped thread, drilled out if necessary. A much stronger solution.

trouble is its both sides so the driveside one would catch on the cassette

 

[cyberknight]

What size are they? M4? Run an M5 tap through the hole. Job sorted.

erm standard one haha

 

[Darius_Jedburgh]

erm standard one haha

You've lost me. What is wrong with that?
Then you could cut bolts to length to stop them catching on the cassette.
Done it myself. No problems.

 

[si_c]

trouble is its both sides so the driveside one would catch on the cassette

I had that problem in the past, I used a button headed allan bolt, m4, threaded through in reverse with the bolt on the outside of the frame. The button head allowed the cassette to rotate without catching on the nut as it was slim enough, a similar solution might work in your case depending on how close the cassette is to the bolt head. A photo would help

 

[figbat]

trouble is its both sides so the driveside one would catch on the cassette

Something like this, with the nut outboard?

 

[si_c]

Something like this, with the nut outboard?
View attachment 589777

Basically what I did, but in my case button head was sufficient.

 

[biggs682]

trouble is its both sides so the driveside one would catch on the cassette

As others have said cut to length or use button head style

 

[Legs]

I had that problem in the past, I used a button headed allan bolt, m4, threaded through in reverse with the bolt on the outside of the frame.

Yup, done that before!

 

[raleighnut]

Couple of my bikes have unthreaded holes, bolt from the inside with nut on the outside works fine.

 

[scragend]

The ribble rebuild has been used as a commuter for the last few weeks due to issues with the LBS sourcing and fitting incorrect chainring on the disc road bike but the eyelets for the mudgaurd / pannier rack seem to be made if cheese and have no thread worth a damn .I am not sure you can use p clips as weight bearing ?


Does anyone know if you can get them rethreaded or has anyone any experience with this sort of rack ?

<pic snipped>

I have one of those racks for one of my bikes which has no eyelets. It's solid enough with the "legs" attached (don't be tempted to use just the main bar without the legs, it'll sway all over the place).

How high above the back wheel it will sit depends on the geometry of your frame. The one in the picture is quite high - it is similar on the bike that I use it on, but if I mount it on my Marasa hybrid, which I did before I got a proper rack, it sits much lower.

Obviously not as good as a proper rack, but they're OK.

 

[I like Skol]

I had that problem in the past, I used a button headed allan bolt, m4, threaded through in reverse with the bolt on the outside of the frame. The button head allowed the cassette to rotate without catching on the nut as it was slim enough, a similar solution might work in your case depending on how close the cassette is to the bolt head. A photo would help

Something like this, with the nut outboard?
View attachment 589777

I think you have your answer