Steel frames and water ingress when the seat tube is out.

[PaulSecteur]

Hey up,

Possibly going to be getting a Genesis with a steel frame. As it has eyes for guards I will probalble use it through winter to get to the gym. When I leave it outside I will take the saddle and seatpost out, leaving the frame open for water to get in.

Will this cause a problem with rusting?

 

[snorri]

Will this cause a problem with rusting?

I wouldn't think so, but you could coat the inner surface of the seat tube with oil using an aerosol, and fit a bung in the open end when you take out the seat post, if it really worries you.

 

[Tim Bennet.]

As well as spraying down the tube from time to time with 3in1 oil aerosol, you might consider drilling a 6mm 'drain hole' through the middle at the very lowest part of the bottom bracket shell on your frame.

All steel frames benefit from these as water usually gets into the frame anyway in bad weather. (Doesn't have any downsides as long as you don't leave the drilling swarf on the inside, remember to touch up the paint when you're done and the frame doesn't use those plastic cable guides that would block the hole!).

 

[NormanD]

Plastic money bag (the sort for cash) and an elastic band

 

[Fiona N]

Why take the saddle / seat post out? Just use a non-QR seat clamp. And a plastic bag over the saddle if you're worried about a wet bum

 

[brockers]

Steel tubes are treated internally to prevent rusting, before they leave the factory. But maybe an occasional squirt of Finegan's Waxoyl wouldn't do any harm. How about a handlebar end-plug to go in the top of the seat-tube? I use one on the underside of the fork-crown to prevent water going into the steerer tube.

 

[Hilldodger]

Steel tubes are treated internally to prevent rusting, before they leave the factory. But maybe an occasional squirt of Finegan's Waxoyl wouldn't do any harm. How about a handlebar end-plug to go in the top of the seat-tube? I use one on the underside of the fork-crown to prevent water going into the steerer tube.

Some are. You'd be suprised how many seem to be missed, though.

 

[david1701]

buckets of waxoyl

 

[Tim Bennet.]

You must warm both the frame and waxoyl until it's almost too hot to touch, or otherwise it's too viscous to flow into all the nooks and grannies around the lugs and small bore seat / chain stays. It also helps if it is 'blown in' at paint spray type pressures to ensure if it to penetrate to all the places favoured by rust.

I've conducted loads of experiments with using rust prevention in steel structures and there is a scale below which waxoyl can be less than effective. Easier to do well is to bung up the holes and empty a whole can of 3in1 oil into the frame and rotate it around until the oil flows into all the ends of the tubes. Make sure you check which are 'open' to others and which are blind. Sometime the seat stays (and sometimes chain-stays) are isolated and can only be accessed through the little breather holes on their lower ends. Then let it drain out.

The rust prevention additives in 3in1 oil are remarkably effective.

 

[chillyuk]

Steel tubes are treated internally to prevent rusting, before they leave the factory. But maybe an occasional squirt of Finegan's Waxoyl wouldn't do any harm. How about a handlebar end-plug to go in the top of the seat-tube? I use one on the underside of the fork-crown to prevent water going into the steerer tube.

I wouldn't block any of the tubes. Having them open to the air may allow a small amount of water in but will also allow the water to evaporate again.