SRAM/Shimano cassette Compatibility

[Monsieur Remings]

I wish to use the same set of wheels on two separate bikes. One bike is a SRAM set-up and the other is Shimano 105.

- Am I wrong in thinking that a spacer on the inside end of the hub is the only difference between a SRAM and Shimano set-up or is this completely not the case? I ask because my Mavic wheels came with a spacer and I wondered whether there was also a similar spacer on the inside end of the hub for a Shimano set-up? I'm hoping they're both the same..?

- Although some would use two chains to each cassette, is it a poor idea to use two chains on the same cassette simultaneously?

Both cassettes - the SRAM 1070 and the Shimano one are both the same ratios - so ultimately what I want to be able to do is use the newer of the two cassettes - the Shimano - on both set-ups which means all I have to do is change the rear wheel as opposed having to change cassettes every time I swap wheels.

What do you think?

 

[Mr Haematocrit]

I'm convinced there are differences between the SRAM and Shimano cassettes in the spacing between each of the gears, or the thickness of each gear. The reason for this belief is I use Di2 which being electronic has accurate and consistent shifting and when you set this up it works exceptionally well, when you swap the default Shimano cassette and wheel out for one with a SRAM cassette the difference is noticeable.
I have not measured the cassettes extensively or have factual information regarding this, its just my own views and experience which make me believe this.

You will also get a spacer on Shimano 11 speed compatible hubs but not on 10 speed specific hubs

 

[RecordAceFromNew]

This should help. You should have a 1.75mm M40417 spacer between the cassette and the freehub on your Mavic wheel with Shimano/sram compatible freehub. This is separate and different to the 1mm 10 speed spacer that compensates for the fact that Shimano 10 speed road cassettes are narrower than 8/9 speed ones.

IMHO you don't need to worry about cassette sprocket spacing difference because there isn't any. You might however want to check if the cassettes are at the exact same distance from the rear dropout.

 

[Monsieur Remings]

This should help. You should have a 1.75mm M40417 spacer between the cassette and the freehub on your Mavic wheel with Shimano/sram compatible freehub. This is separate and different to the 1mm 10 speed spacer that compensates for the fact that Shimano 10 speed road cassettes are narrower than 8/9 speed ones.

IMHO you don't need to worry about cassette sprocket spacing difference because there isn't any. You might however want to check if the cassettes are at the exact same distance from the rear dropout.

Okay, that's helpful Record, so in which case do I use both spacers?

 

[RecordAceFromNew]

Okay, that's helpful Record, so in which case do I use both spacers?

Yes for the Shimano 10 speed cassette on the Mavic wheel, but only the Mavic 1.75mm spacer for a sram 10 cassette on it. In case there is any confusion this might help.

 

[Monsieur Remings]

Nice one, thanks.

 

[Monsieur Remings]

Okay, so both spacers have now gone on the Mavic hub (I've put the 1.75mm on the inside) and I've transferred the Shimano 10-speed cassette over which I intend to use with both systems.

I guess the only question is whether or not it's okay to swap the wheel/cassette set up above between one bike with a chain around 0.6mm and a brand new one simultaneously? I think this may have been covered but any additional info. would be good...

Thanks...

 

[RecordAceFromNew]

I guess the only question is whether or not it's okay to swap the wheel/cassette set up above between one bike with a chain around 0.6mm and a brand new one simultaneously? I think this may have been covered but any additional info. would be good...

Thanks...

It is generally accepted that chains are fine to use under 0.5% elongated (which is 1.6mm or 1/16" per foot), because the consequence of using a chain more worn than that is it will accelerate sprocket wear rapidly, and adjacent half links can't and won't elongate the same amount (because inner plates wear while outers don't), so a worn chain can't distribute loading on sprocket teeth evenly.

Since both your chains are below that limit, I don't see why you shouldn't use them.