Square Taper?

[Summerking]

Whilst out riding my 92' Raleigh Peak steel Mountainbike I noticed a clunk/clicking when pedalling, it wasn't completely rhythmical and seemed to do it randomly. On getting home I took the chain off the front Ring and moved the crank arms to see if there was any play..and there was a good 20-30mm side to side that shouldn't be there, might this just be the taper coming adrift or is it serious enough to suggest the bearings are shot? the nuts underneath the dust caps are done up tight,I have only had the bike for 2 weeks and it is around 20 years old.
If worst come to the worst is it a big job for my Lbs to replace? one hour labour plus parts? perhaps.
thanks for listening.
Summer.

 

[smokeysmoo]

Sounds like either the BB is shot or worse case the cranks are shot.

If they've been ridden whilst loose it causes the squared hole in the crank arms to become rounded and then they'll just work loose over and over. Just a guess but I'd suspect the last owner experienced this and has just tightened the crank bolts to within an inch of their life, then they've been OK upto now but have now worked loose again.

Changing the BB and the cranks is an easy job TBH. Granted you would need a couple of tools, but they're not expensive and the satisfaction of doing things yourself is great

 

[Summerking]

Thanks Smokey, wasn't sure if I would attempt it but I think I will now, going out for the tools tomorrow.

 

[smokeysmoo]

Thanks Smokey, wasn't sure if I would attempt it but I think I will now, going out for the tools tomorrow.

Top man, and remember, YouTube is your friend for all fettling matters. A quick search found this, I haven't watched it through TBH but it looks bang on


View: http://youtu.be/HSRS_rn5fEA

 

[Summerking]

Well today the tools arrived that I ordered on Ebay and I set to work dismantling my bottom bracket on my 92 Raleigh mountainbike, after skinning 2 knuckles close to the bone I have accumulated these parts

as you can see 7 of the bearings are pretty much knackered, can anyone tell me if I can just buy the correct bearings? or will they come as part of a replacement Bottom bracket set?
I have not been able to undo the cup on the chainring side although the bearings fell free and the inner cup surface is smooth and unblemished, will this side need to come undone to replace the bearings ? if it does need to come off can anyone tell me which way I need to turn it in the picture below?

thanks in advance
Summer.

 

[RecordAceFromNew]

One ball is missing in the photo... Not that it matters, you should not reuse any of them anyway.

Chance is they are 1/4" bearings and you need 22. You can get Weldtite ones from ebay for under £2, and this is worth reading.

Given the state of the balls do make sure the cups and spindle races where the balls run are not pitted (see photos here), otherwise you are throwing good money after bad - best to replace all worn bits. If the surface on the drive side fixed cup is smooth there is no reason to remove it.

Good luck!

 

[Summerking]

One ball is missing in the photo... Not that it matters, you should not reuse any of them anyway.

Chance is they are 1/4" bearings and you need 22. You can get Weldtite ones from ebay for under £2, and this is worth reading.

Given the state of the balls do make sure the cups and spindle races where the balls run are not pitted (see photos here), otherwise you are throwing good money after bad - best to replace all worn bits. If the surface on the drive side fixed cup is smooth there is no reason to remove it.

Good luck!

thanksverymuch RecordAceFromNew, I appreciate the help

 

[Tim Hall]

The cup in your pic is v v v likely to be left hand thread. That is "wrong" threaded. To undo it, turn it to the right, or clockwise. But you probably don't need to remove it , as RecordAce says. Put a squidge of general purpose grease in it, then add the balls, either by poking them in through the axle hole or by fiddling them in from the other side. The grease will hold them in place until you pop the axle back in. If you do want to remove it, and the spanner keeps slipping, try the nut'n'bolt method as described on Sheldon's site.

 

[Summerking]

The cup in your pic is v v v likely to be left hand thread. That is "wrong" threaded. To undo it, turn it to the right, or clockwise. But you probably don't need to remove it , as RecordAce says. Put a squidge of general purpose grease in it, then add the balls, either by poking them in through the axle hole or by fiddling them in from the other side. The grease will hold them in place until you pop the axle back in. If you do want to remove it, and the spanner keeps slipping, try the nut'n'bolt method as described on Sheldon's site.

Thankyou Tim.

 

[Summerking]

One final question with regards with my bottom bracket, I have assembled the cup and cone with new bearings and grease and have done up the bolts that press the crank arms onto the spindle, what I wanted to know is there a set distance to press the cranks on by doing the nut up? I have applied as much torque as possible by hand with a socket wrench and it really won't go any further, but it looks like it still has room?

I've enclosed a photo of how far the crank has pressed on.
thankyou in advance.

 

[Steve Malkin]

Just make sure they are done up FT and then make sure you check them and tighten them up again after the first few rides since they tend to slacken off a little as they bed in.

 

[Summerking]

Just make sure they are done up FT and then make sure you check them and tighten them up again after the first few rides since they tend to slacken off a little as they bed in.

thanks Steve I appreciate the help,I,ll take the socket with me and check it at my halfway point on tomorrows ride.

 

[wisdom]

Nice thread. It must be a help to many of us on here. As ever there are people on here who can help us tackle all sorts of jobs.nice with photos too.