Square taper bottom bracket / lockring tools..

[wafter]

The latest gift from the Routier is a loose bottom bracket lockring..


I'm not familiar with this standard of BB, but having had a quick search it seems that lockrings typically have a variable number of square cutouts in its circumference (mine has four):

The BB itself has a couple of flats on each end which I assume must be tackled with an adjustable spanner as there appear to be no tools available specifically for removing this type of BB..

So; questions are; in the absence of any four-toothed tools to fit the lockring, do the single-tooth C-spanner type tools fit all types of lockring with square cutouts? Further do we have any favourites for this type of tool?

Finally are there any specialist tools better than a simple adjustable spanner to get out the BB as necessary?

Ta

 

[fossyant]

A single tooth spanner is all that's needed, but drive side needs a two sided spanner. Fairly common TBH. I've got some old Campagnolo spanner set - only get's used for the 15mm pedal axel these days, on some pedals.

 

[Deleted member 1258]

The latest gift from the Routier is a loose bottom bracket lockring..


I'm not familiar with this standard of BB, but having had a quick search it seems that lockrings typically have a variable number of square cutouts in its circumference (mine has four):

View attachment 693784

The BB itself has a couple of flats on each end which I assume must be tackled with an adjustable spanner as there appear to be no tools available specifically for removing this type of BB..

So; questions are; in the absence of any four-toothed tools to fit the lockring, do the single-tooth C-spanner type tools fit all types of lockring with square cutouts? Further do we have any favourites for this type of tool?

Finally are there any specialist tools better than a simple adjustable spanner to get out the BB as necessary?

Ta

In the absence of the correct tool the lockring can be undone using a hammer and a soft drift.

 

[Big John]

This vid will show you some of the more common tools you can use:


View: https://youtu.be/yrkqf91H_Zk

 

[I like Skol]

I'm not familiar with this standard of BB,

..... How old are you, 13?

 

[Dogtrousers]

Do not attempt to remove the drive side cup, aka the fixed cup, unless you need to (eg if replacing the whole thing with a cartridge) It can be difficult. So if just cleaning/regreasing leave it in situ.

 

[Ajax Bay]

C-spanner for the lockring. Big adjustable for the LHS cup (which will not be tight). As @Dogtrousers says: avoid removing the RHS cup if at all possible (NB will be silly tight so extreme care with spanner/cup interface when torque applied).
With RHS cup left in place, clean it through the BB shell, and pack with grease by the same route. Normally one can pop the bearings (?11) in from the outside, through the spindle 'ole.

 

[wafter]

Thanks all

A single tooth spanner is all that's needed, but drive side needs a two sided spanner. Fairly common TBH. I've got some old Campagnolo spanner set - only get's used for the 15mm pedal axel these days, on some pedals.

Cheers - my inner engineer would rather have something that engages all four cutouts; however I appreciate that while the shape and size of the cutouts in the lockring are probably standardised, their configuration isn't - hence there are lockrings with 3,4,6 and 8 cutouts around their circumference; the only tools to fit most of these apparently being the single-tooth spanner that's designed to "fit" them all.

I appreciate that I'll need a more conventional spanner for the drive side (and the adjustable portion of the NDS in this case, it seems), however I don't much like the idea of using an adjustable given the relatively small engagement area and potential for slipping..

In the absence of the correct tool the lockring can be undone using a hammer and a soft drift.

Thanks - thought about that myself for all of about two seconds before deciding that I needed the correct tools..

This vid will show you some of the more common tools you can use:


View: https://youtu.be/yrkqf91H_Zk

Cheers - as you suggest a good overview of commonly-available tools

..... How old are you, 13?

Sadly not; although thankfully I've not previously required any meaningful interaction with square taper BBs, so it's all new to me

Do not attempt to remove the drive side cup, aka the fixed cup, unless you need to (eg if replacing the whole thing with a cartridge) It can be difficult. So if just cleaning/regreasing leave it in situ.

Thanks - I was working my way around to that conclusion myself. I'd initially, incorrectly assumed that the BB was like a single-piece cartridge type with a lockring; and as such had planned to remove, clean and refit it all with some copper grease. Now I see it appears to be two-piece / adjustable with a lock ring; so I think I'll look to remove the NDS crank arm, re-set the bearing preload on the adjustable side and refit the lock ring.



I'm tempted by the Icetoolz lockring tool:

It's only a fiver from SJS, I trust them to stock decent gear, it shouldn't need a lot of torque applying and I need to order from them anyway..

They also sell a Shimano crank puller for £19, which I figure is a reasonable "investment" over cheaper offerings (even if I only currently have 1.5 bikes running ST cranks) as Shimano stuff is usually good quality:

I'm also intrigued by some of the cheapie stuff on ebay - such as the slew of seemingly-the-same Chinese items that seem to offer better solutions to removing the BB than those from the major tool manufacturers / the old go-to of the adjustable spanner:

This listing has two different tools; the "LHS" one at least looking like it's meant to interface with the fat drive rib that runs across the face of the LH side of the BB. Potentially a far better bet than using an adjustable spanner as it should have more engagement with the drive faces on the BB; while it could presumably be held in place with the crank arm bolt packed out with washers to prevent it slipping - both of which should increase the max applied torque and reduce / eliminate the chance of slipping and associated damage:

The other from the same listing is stated as for the RHS, but irritatingly there are no pics of the drive interface with the BB and the description is bloody awful; however from another listing it appears that this is intended for fit the "other" type of BB that has a larger circumference with a couple of shallow flats on it:

Finally we have a fairly handy combination tool that apparently does everything:

Probably the cheapest option; however while probably better on the flats than attempting to us an adjustable spanner, unlike the deeper tools above this still potentially risks slipping off the drive faces on the BB and causing damage..

I'm often surprised by the Chinese offerings on sale - on the one hand quality can be, to put it charitably, "variable"; however they seem to lead the more established manufacturers in terms of innovative / novel approaches to tool design.


So, it's curringly looking like the Icetoolz lockring C-spanner and Shimano extractor from SJS, probably with the cheapo "LHS" tool from ebay once I've had the opportunity to confirm the dims on the Raleigh's BB to ensure that it'll fit.

Thanks again for all the thoughts - hopefully this thread might help others in a similar dilemma in future

 

[wafter]

C-spanner for the lockring. Big adjustable for the LHS cup (which will not be tight). As @Dogtrousers says: avoid removing the RHS cup if at all possible (NB will be silly tight so extreme care with spanner/cup interface when torque applied).
With RHS cup left in place, clean it through the BB shell, and pack with grease by the same route. Normally one can pop the bearings (?11) in from the outside, through the spindle 'ole.

Thanks, makes sense and is pretty much how I was looking at going. Will leave the DS assy in place while its behaving itself