Sprockets eating into freehub body

[Sittingduck]

Okay, so I have just managed to remove the cassette from a wheel, that I intend to rebuild. I had problems getting the middle 5 sprockets off the freehub because it looks like they have bitten into the freehub
Has anybody seen this before? Do you think it's safe for me to put the cassette back on, or should this be a replacement freehub? They have not deformed all of the splines around the freeehub, something like 50% of them though! Had to use a screwdriver and a hammer to tap the sprockets firmly, in order to get them to release. Sprockets are unscathed!

Pic 1

Pic 2



Cheers,
SD

 

[lpretro1]

Yes this happens often - the metal on the cassette is harder than the alloy on the freehub body. Seen this on Hope freehubs in particular. Might be worthwhile filing down any 'raggy' bits then as long as you can get the casstte on ok it will be fine. Only way to avoid it again is to ensure you fit a probably better quality cassette - cheaper ones tend to be steel.

 

[ColinJ]

I was out on an audax ride with colly once when his transmission abruptly stopped transmitting! It wasn't a failure in his freehub mechanism because it only happened in one gear. It turned out that one sprocket had cut its way through the splines on the outside of the hub ... (Click the picture to enlarge it.)

 

[amaferanga]

It happens with alloy freehubs regardless of the quality of the cassette. Assuming you're running 10-speed then one solution is to get a 10-speed only freehub which has higher ridges on it (and therefore only takes a 10-speed cassette). Making sure you do the lockring up nice and tight helps as well.

 

[ianrauk]

The hub on my Easton wheel has been pretty chewed up by a 105 cassette.

 

[Alun]

I'd get a new freehub, that one won't get better.
Tightening the cassette right up to the recommended torque, might help prevent it happening again.
Don't pedal so hard !

 

[amaferanga]

I'd get a new freehub, that one won't get better.
Tightening the cassette right up to the recommended torque, might help prevent it happening again.
Don't pedal so hard !

I've had marks like that on an alloy freehub after a few hundred miles. It'd be an expensive business if I were to replace them every few hundred miles. As long as the cassette will go on and come off (with some persuasion) then as far as I'm aware there's not really an issue.

 

[GilesM]

That's perfectly normal, as suggested it may be worth filing down any rough bits before re-fitting the cassette, the best way around the problem is when your cassette wears out replace it with one which has the larger sprockets on an alloy spider, see attached link, you'll see what I mean.

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=8333

 

[Sittingduck]

Ok cheers, looks like it isn't down to insane raw power afterall

 

[GilesM]

Ok cheers, looks like it isn't down to insane raw power afterall

Probably not, but that doesn't mean you can't tell everyone it is.

 

[e-rider]

Alloy freehub bodies are the cause. Steel is real or pay for Ti

 

[MacB]

SD, I deliberately specified the steel freehub for my Hope wheel, rather than the alloy one. File this one down and keep going but when it comes time to replace I'd take the weight penalty and get a steel replacement.

 

[Sittingduck]

Roger that! Luckily this is just a spare wheel that needs rebuilding anyway. How easy is it to swap a freehub and can I use a freehub body from a different wheelset? Eg. From the Fulcrum R7, I have just dismantled? The one in the pic is an Easton EA50.

 

[GilesM]

SD, I deliberately specified the steel freehub for my Hope wheel, rather than the alloy one. File this one down and keep going but when it comes time to replace I'd take the weight penalty and get a steel replacement.

You really don't need to take the weight penalty and use the steel freehub, the cassettes with alloy spiders are perfect.

 

[ianrauk]

Ant,
can I buy the Easton freehub body off you for spares?