Sore hands

[doyler78]

Ok have a new road bike after years of riding a flat bar but my problem now is that my hands get quite sore in the fleshy part just below the thumb. I know that the new riding position puts more pressure on my lower back, shoulders and hands as my weight has moved from my ass to these areas however that doesn't make the fact that my hands are sore.

I bought a new pair of spesh bg gel gloves but they made the matter worse because the gel pads got and the creases in my hands tended to nip and that made riding uncomfortable so changed back to my spesh bg sport gloves however the problem therefore still exists.

Any suggestions.

Also with small hands the bulkier gel gloves made it very hard for me to reach the brake levers (dura-ace) as I have small hands so any suggestions on what I can do to bring the levers closer would be appreciated or what my options are to sort it.

 

[chrisuren]

Whenever I go out MTB'ing (Quite often now I got some people to go with) I always wear my kayak gloves. They've got warm pipes through all the fingers and on such a cold day, like it was today it was lovely.

I mainly use the gloves to protect from thorns or stinging nettles.

Never really had a problem with sore hands.

Hope you find a solution soon.

 

[fossyant]

It's going to take time...........just keep at it !

 

[doyler78]

Have a pair of toasty gloves for the winter but the fingerless are great for now as it really isn't cold enough for me to wear full length ones now, even in the rain.

That great fossyant to hear that this is a problem that should improve on its own with more riding. Wasn't sure that this was the sort of thing that you adapt to so will stick out a bit longer to see if I get any improvement.

 

[Steve Austin]

get a shorter stem and move your saddle forward and down

 

[Joe]

Moving your saddle forward puts more pressure on your hands!

 

[Steve Austin]

not if you move it down as well

 

[Twenty Inch]

Try rotating the handlebars slightly upwards towards the saddle. Might make it easier.

 

[Over The Hill]

Sorry Steve (you usually give very good advice) but I am with Joe on this. I have had the same problem but have moved saddle back and it has cured it.
I see problem as too much weight on the hands which is then on a small contact area on the handle bars for a long time. Saddle back a bit will move your weight back onto your bum more and so off your hands.
I can feel more weight on the back wheel and less on the front when I do this too.

All above is assuming the bike size is about right in the first place. My MTB was too small and I could not make it any better whatever I did with it but then I think MTB is made to have your weight a bit more even so they will have a setup to push on the hands.

 

[doyler78]

OK will try moving the saddle back as there seems to be more going for this option and see if it makes any difference though that will take my knee back from over the pedal axle at 3 o'clock. Is that likely to be a problem?

Moving the saddle downwards isn't an option as I had inadvertenly done that when I put the saddle on and to be quite frank it cut the balls of me so won't be going there again

As to the sizing. Well I did get one of those standard bike fittings done and had the frame size picked for me based on that so I hope its the right size.

 

[Fab Foodie]

I usually go for moving the seat backwards to alleviate the hands and arms.
Bike set-up explained well here:
http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/fitting.htm

 

[Steve Austin]

If you fit a shorter stem (less distance to reach)
and move your seat forward (less distance to reach)
and lower your saddle (sit more upright, less weight on your hands)

Doing all of this together will not put more weight on your hands. Moving a saddle forward on its own could put more weight on your hands, BUT shortening your stem, lowering the saddle and moving it forward will create less pressure on hands.

The major issue with internet advice is one of not knowing all the facts. the OP could be a 6'5" 300kg riding a 16" 1950's leadpipe roadbike that he picked up at the bootfair for a fiver. We don't know. We have to assume some sort of general facts. I always assume the average unless told otherwise.

 

[Globalti]

The knees won't be a problem, some riders set their bikes up like this anyway.

MTBers can buy Ergon grips, which are fantastically comfortable. Maybe Ergon should make an open ended version for use on road bars.

 

[doyler78]

OK,

I am 5'8", weigh 75.5kg. It is a Planet X Ti Sportive and the geometry and other info of the bike I bought is:

Geometry
M(52)
Size equivalent (cm) (if comparing to a traditional geometry) 54
Seat Tube (mm) - Centre to Top 520
Equivalent Top Tube Length (mm) - Centre to Centre 540
Seat Angle (deg) 74
Head Angle (deg) 72.5
Head Tube Length (mm) 135

Note:- External headset will add ~30mm equivalent to head tube length depending on headset choice.

To compare frame sizes of different brands, compare the equivalent top tube lengths of the frames.

The “size equivalent” measurement gives an idea of the frame size compared to a traditional geometry with non-sloping top tube. Although the Sportive Ti has a very nearly horizontal top tube and certainly feels like a more traditional geometry frame when ridden.

Approx Frame Weights
Medium: ~1343g

And my bike fitting diagram looks like this:

http://flickr.com/photos/14838736@N04/2595163871/sizes/l/

How do I insert an image right into the message rather than just a link. Did put it in img tags but it just came up blank.

 

[Riding in Circles]

Get a recumbent.