Sora FD clunky - is this normal?

[All uphill]

Yesterday Ms AU bought a 2015 Felt 95, her first road bike.

The bike looks almost unused, original tyres and completely unmarked.

The only critical comment after the first couple of short rides (apart from a few mild aches) is that the front derailler needs quite a push on the brifter to change to the big ring. I've tried it and agree it's very clunky.

Before I start replacing cables is this normal for Sora?

Thanks in advance.

 

[I like Skol]

I would just check inner stop screw setting and cable tension before replacing the cable. If the mech us having to travel a long way before it makes contact with the chain, or the brifter is having to pull in a lot of slack cable before the mech moves, then that would explain the big push required.

 

[Big John]

No idea about Sora but as it's considered not a bad groupset I'd be inclined to say it's either cable or front mech itself related. If it were me I'd undo the cable from the mech and see how the mech moves just by hand. Spray it with GT85 to see if that makes shifting any easier. If there's no improvement change the cable (Halfrauds have a stainless steel cable for a couple of quid) and even the outer cable if necessary. When the cable is disconnected hold the cable by hand and test the shifter to make sure it appears to be pulling the cable ok. It's unlikely but it could be a sticky shifter. Best you can do there is try and get some GT85 in it and hope for the best. I wouldn't recommend taking one apart unless you have another one to replace it 😉

 

[Ajax Bay]

the front derailleur needs quite a push on the brifter to change to the big ring. I've tried it and agree it's very clunky.
Before I start replacing cables is this normal for Sora?

Skolly has pointed out that with the FD cage above the inner ring, there needs to be tension in the cable.
Assuming that, I'd say the 9sp Sora (and 9sp Tiagra) does need a fairly firm push across to make the shift. Call it clunky if you like. Bit harder with smaller hands. Of course the inner cables may have deteriorated, but with such little use, it's unlikely. Drop of 3in1 oil on all 4 pivots of the FD.
Assume the top limit screw is set correctly to let the cage move right far enough.

 

[C R]

Skolly has pointed out that with the FD cage above the inner ring, there needs to be tension in the cable.
Assuming that, I'd say the 9sp Sora (and 9sp Tiagra) does need a fairly firm push across to make the shift. Call it clunky if you like. Bit harder with smaller hands. Of course the inner cables may have deteriorated, but with such little use, it's unlikely. Drop of 3in1 oil on all 4 pivots of the FD.
Assume the top limit screw is set correctly to let the cage move right far enough.

I have 9 speed Sora, and there's a fair bit of travel to go for small to large at the front, even with no slack at all in the cable when in lowest position.

 

[All uphill]

Thanks, that's really helpful everyone.

I've had a quick look and there is a bit of slack in the cable, so I'll have a proper look in the morning, adjust, lubricate and see if that helps.

 

[Drago]

Sora shifters can be clunky on the release, but otherwise should change smoothly and sweetly with only light effort.

 

[Gunk]

I've used Sora in the past and often buy Sora stuff for project bikes because it's such good value for money. It is the bottom rung of the ladder of the "decent" Shimano group sets, but although slightly agricultural (mainly due to the basic trigger shifter) the Sora FD is usually seamless, that's why I buy them.

 

[Darius_Jedburgh]

As mentioned, Sora is the lowest of the decent stuff. The mechs themselves are usually decent being only slightly removed from 105. The shifters are usually the weak link in the chain. Make sure cables are clean, lubed and well adjusted.

 

[Cycleops]

Also make make sure the cage is just 1-2mm above the large chainwheel and in line with it.
From what you say sounds like cable tension. Should shift fine once sorted.

 

[DRM]

No, whilst not as smooth as 105, or the latest Tiagra, it should change smoothly enough, mine doesn't need a hard push to change up & down

 

[Ajax Bay]

there is a bit of slack in the cable,

Likely what's happening here is that the first bit of the STI lever swing is being used to take up the slack so to execute the shift to the large ring, to get the required cable pull, the lever is having to be pushed across right to its fullest extent, needing force with a hand position that makes it seem difficult, and only just making it.

 

[si_c]

On a 2015 bike I'm assuming that it's the older style Sora with the side exit shift cables? I've not used it but the R3000 I have used extensively (20k miles) does have slightly more throw on the levers at the front than Tiagra or 105, and the action is slightly heavier, but I found with good, properly tensioned cables that it's a great groupset to use, shifts well and the TCO is very good.

 

[C R]

On a 2015 bike I'm assuming that it's the older style Sora with the side exit shift cables? I've not used it but the R3000 I have used extensively (20k miles) does have slightly more throw on the levers at the front than Tiagra or 105, and the action is slightly heavier, but I found with good, properly tensioned cables that it's a great groupset to use, shifts well and the TCO is very good.

The thing I find with the Sora front shifting is that it seems to be hard to get moving and then shifts well, albeit with a long throw. I think the reason for the initial resistance might be that in the small ring position the arm of the FD is almost vertical, with the cable almost parallel to it, so that there's very little leverage, but as it moves up, the leverage improves the motion becomes smoother. It may be that initial resistance that makes it feel clunky, but if my thoughts about leverage are correct, that's due to the derrailleur design, not to the shifter itself.

 

[si_c]

The thing I find with the Sora front shifting is that it seems to be hard to get moving and then shifts well, albeit with a long throw. I think the reason for the initial resistance might be that in the small ring position the arm of the FD is almost vertical, with the cable almost parallel to it, so that there's very little leverage, but as it moves up, the leverage improves the motion becomes smoother. It may be that initial resistance that makes it feel clunky, but if my thoughts about leverage are correct, that's due to the derrailleur design, not to the shifter itself.

The R3000 series was updated to have a longer actuation arm which gives it a much lighter action - although it can foul mudguards depending on the frame geometry, the new slim profile R7000 and up derailleur is an improvement again, although it is a pain to get set up first time.