So, my FreeHub failed

[Bman]

1/4 of a mile into my 10mile commute, at the bottom of a hill I lose all power. Change gear to try and get the chain back on the big ring but wait, it *is* on the big ring.

Pull over to check and find it is terminal. I cont carry a spare rear with me on my commute!

So, the back story: About a week ago I started to hear some unusual clicking from the back wheel while pedalling, so on Tuesday I removed, cleaned and re-greased the cones and bearings. However, I was not able to completely dismantle the freehub as I seem to need a specific tool? I was happy with the maintanance anyway and it seemed to have stopped the clicking. Well, I was wrong.

http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/t.../EV-WH-RS10-R-2746F_v1_m56577569830686101.pdf

I wasnt able to remove parts 8, 9 10, 11 or 12. It looks like i need a specific tool to uncrew part 8 to get to the freehub?

So, now its failed, how easy is it to fix? What part do i need? Is it worth repairing? The rims have done about 2-4000 miles and there is plently of thickness left in the rim walls. Especially on the back wheel.

 

[e-rider]

1/4 of a mile into my 10mile commute, at the bottom of a hill I lose all power. Change gear to try and get the chain back on the big ring but wait, it *is* on the big ring.

Pull over to check and find it is terminal. I cont carry a spare rear with me on my commute!

So, the back story: About a week ago I started to hear some unusual clicking from the back wheel while pedalling, so on Tuesday I removed, cleaned and re-greased the cones and bearings. However, I was not able to completely dismantle the freehub as I seem to need a specific tool? I was happy with the maintanance anyway and it seemed to have stopped the clicking. Well, I was wrong.

http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/t.../EV-WH-RS10-R-2746F_v1_m56577569830686101.pdf

I wasnt able to remove parts 8, 9 10, 11 or 12. It looks like i need a specific tool to uncrew part 8 to get to the freehub?

So, now its failed, how easy is it to fix? What part do i need? Is it worth repairing? The rims have done about 2-4000 miles and there is plently of thickness left in the rim walls. Especially on the back wheel.

you should be able to remove those parts - usually with a 10mm allen key
you can replace the freehub body and it should be easy enough to do, although replacement freehub bodies are overpriced

A change in the click of the rear wheel is always a bad sign, probably one of the pawls broke, now they have all gone!

 

[Titanium]

Hi. In order to remove the freehub unit, you first remove the axle with the cones and nuts. Carefully remove and retain the 9 ball bearings inside the bearing part of the freehub - these rotate as the bearing on the axle/cone. Do all this over big sheets of newspaper or old cloth to catch any runaway ball bearings (or a large tray with a rim is good). The other ball bearings (other side of the hub) you can sort of leave them there as the grease may be sticky enough to hold them there - but I'd take out the 9 ball bearings on each side (so 18 in total) and take the opportunity to clean and regrease all the bearing parts.
It'll be all greasy in the cavity hole in the freehub, but there's a 10mm allen key hole fitting in there - you put your allen key in, make sure it's engaged fully and then untighten the freehub and remove it. Keep hold of the bolt and fitting, but chuck away the freehub.
Then you fit a new freehub. You pretty much put it all back together again and you've renewed / replaced the freehub.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/shimano-wh-r501-freewheel-body-unit-r-500-30-mm-r-501-/170998283409?_trksid=p2054897.l4275

 

[e-rider]

Hi. In order to remove the freehub unit, you first remove the axle with the cones and nuts. Carefully remove and retain the 9 ball bearings inside the bearing part of the freehub - these rotate as the bearing on the axle/cone. Do all this over big sheets of newspaper or old cloth to catch any runaway ball bearings (or a large tray with a rim is good). The other ball bearings (other side of the hub) you can sort of leave them there as the grease may be sticky enough to hold them there - but I'd take out the 9 ball bearings on each side (so 18 in total) and take the opportunity to clean and regrease all the bearing parts.
It'll be all greasy in the cavity hole in the freehub, but there's a 10mm allen key hole fitting in there - you put your allen key in, make sure it's engaged fully and then untighten the freehub and remove it. Keep hold of the bolt and fitting, but chuck away the freehub.
Then you fit a new freehub. You pretty much put it all back together again and you've renewed / replaced the freehub.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/shimano-wh-r501-freewheel-body-unit-r-500-30-mm-r-501-/170998283409?_trksid=p2054897.l4275

are you sure that freehub body is compatible with a RS10 wheel?

 

[Bman]

Thanks for the quick replies.

I did exactly as you advised Titanium, with the bearings. Thats all been cleaned and re-greased, I just couldnt find a way to remove the freehub.

I have found these, which appear to fit. £30 is alot cheaper than a whole new wheel!
http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/shimano-wh-rs10-cassette-freehub-body-4dv-9811-prod25824/
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/shimano-m565-9sp-freehub-body/rp-prod78993

I dont think I have a 10mm allen key to attempt removing the freehub to check what exactly has failed. How likely is it that a new freehub will fix the problem?

Luckily I still have my old wheelset which still has some life in them, so I have the luxury of time to get what I need to fix this as cheaply as possible. If only I had a 10mm allen key I could attempt to swap over the freehub from the old wheelset to the new.

 

[Biker Joe]

The freehub fixing bolt can be very tight and difficult to undo needing some considerable force on occasion.
Also when replacing the bolt it needs to be really tight. Best done with a torque wrench if you have one.
If you cant manage, an LBS should be able to help you out.
A 10 mm hex doesn't cost much.

 

[Lanzecki]

Find a friendly welder to weld it up for you and start a new trend :

Fixie with Gears. Breaking wouldn't be good though.

 

[Titanium]

If you can get hold of a 10mm allen key, that will insert inside the space through the freehub and engage into the 10mm allen key slot/hole. You un-do that to remove the freehub.
So that's it probably..... the 10mm allen key is the missing link. Some £1 pound shops or bargain shops sell sets of allen keys with the large 10mm size. Good luck, and all the best.

 

[e-rider]

Thanks for the quick replies.

I did exactly as you advised Titanium, with the bearings. Thats all been cleaned and re-greased, I just couldnt find a way to remove the freehub.

I have found these, which appear to fit. £30 is alot cheaper than a whole new wheel!
http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/shimano-wh-rs10-cassette-freehub-body-4dv-9811-prod25824/
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/shimano-m565-9sp-freehub-body/rp-prod78993

I dont think I have a 10mm allen key to attempt removing the freehub to check what exactly has failed. How likely is it that a new freehub will fix the problem?

Luckily I still have my old wheelset which still has some life in them, so I have the luxury of time to get what I need to fix this as cheaply as possible. If only I had a 10mm allen key I could attempt to swap over the freehub from the old wheelset to the new.

as I said replacements are expensive - £30 compared to £90 for the whole new wheelset!
Replacing the freehub should solve all your problems!

well £93 http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/sp/ro...shimano-rs10-clincher-wheels-pair/shimwhfr362

 

[Mr Bunbury]

For "10mm Allen keys are easy to source", read "Go into any hardware shop and buy one for <£5".

 

[I like Skol]

IME it is often cheaper to buy the whole hub rather than just the freehub. An entire Tiagra rear hub can be had for less than £20 while the freehub on its own costs at least the same amount and often more.