Slipping Forward....

Page may contain affiliate links. Please see terms for details.

Paul J

Guest
I'm hoping someone can give some pointers as to why I am slipping forward onto the nose of my saddle and have to hold myself back by locking my shoulders if you get what I mean.

The saddle is not nose down which would be the obvious :sad:

Any ideas?

Paul
 
Have you checked just how level your saddle actually is?

I thought mine was pretty level, maybe ever so slightly nose down, then I decided to actually level it last week. I was very surprised just how nose down it actually was once I put a spirit level on it.

It's level now though :thumbsup:
 
OP
OP
P

Paul J

Guest
I'm 6' 2" and the frame is 24" old steel framed Raleigh. It's not too big as I still have a bent knee and I don't stretch for the pedals. Top tube is 23" with a 4" stem.

Paul
 

rusky

CC Addict
Location
Hove
Hmmm, I would say that it's a little on the large size unless you have a long torso & arms.
 
Maybe the stem as rusky says. You may feel comfortable enough but may find you are having to stretch forwards which could be causing you to slip.

Maybe try a shorter stem. It shouldn't cost much. Don't know if the diameter is right but THESE seem pretty cheap.
 
OP
OP
P

Paul J

Guest
Maybe the stem as rusky says. You may feel comfortable enough but may find you are having to stretch forwards which could be causing you to slip.

Maybe try a shorter stem. It shouldn't cost much. Don't know if the diameter is right but THESE seem pretty cheap.

Nice find I think I'll try the stem as I could lose nearly 2" in the reach
 

TVC

Guest
Have you tried moving the saddle forward on its rails, that might buy you an inch or so.
 

MrJamie

Oaf on a Bike
I used to slide forward a bit on the saddle, until i was reluctantly forced to move it about 1cm further forwards and a touch higher to fit on my saddlebag. Turned out that despite me thinking it was set up properly (according to guides on the interwebs) the new position kept me in the saddle, still allowed full extension of my leg and very slightly less knee bend at 3'o'clock position which coincided with my occasional knee pain disappearing completely.

It seems setting up a bike fit is a fine art, or to me anyway :wacko:
 

sidevalve

Über Member
Now where did I read that falling off the front of the saddle can be a symptom of having the saddle too far forward?
Worked for me. Kept moving saddle forward but no better then tried moving it back half an inch and bingo.
Seems strange but true.
 

lulubel

Über Member
Location
Malaga, Spain
Worked for me. Kept moving saddle forward but no better then tried moving it back half an inch and bingo.
Seems strange but true.

It's to do with your horizontal position in relation to the pedals. Too far forward and you're pushing your legs "downwards". Get the position correct, and you're pushing slightly forwards, which helps to keep you back in the saddle.
 

tyred

Squire
Location
Ireland
I read an old 1940s book on cycle touring over Christmas and it suggested having the nose of the saddle 2" behind the centre of the bottom bracket spindle. I have tried this and I definitely feel more comfortable on the bike. I would suggest this as a starting point for saddle fore/aft position.

I wouldn't move the saddle to adjust the reach to bars. If the reach to the bars is a problem, you NEED a different stem. The fore/aft position on the saddle is more than just the reach to the bars.

I wouldn't necessarily say the bike is too big either. It might be by modern standards but the fashion for small and large frames has come and gone over the years. I'm 5'11 and have a 25" frame I can ride in perfect comfort, it's just slightly borderline for standover height but it was the fashion in 1975 when the frame was made.

Edit: Have a read of this - http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/fitting.htm
 
OP
OP
P

Paul J

Guest
I used to slide forward a bit on the saddle, until i was reluctantly forced to move it about 1cm further forwards and a touch higher to fit on my saddlebag. Turned out that despite me thinking it was set up properly (according to guides on the interwebs) the new position kept me in the saddle, still allowed full extension of my leg and very slightly less knee bend at 3'o'clock position which coincided with my occasional knee pain disappearing completely.

It seems setting up a bike fit is a fine art, or to me anyway :wacko:

On the way to work this morning I took a look at my reach and I don't feel I am stretching to reach the hoods so I think it is something to do with saddle. I have looked on the web and there seems to be a lot of conflicting info as to how to setup a bike.

Time to have a play me thinks 13mm spanner in my pocket tomorrow for the ride to work. ^_^

I read an old 1940s book on cycle touring over Christmas and it suggested having the nose of the saddle 2" behind the centre of the bottom bracket spindle. I have tried this and I definitely feel more comfortable on the bike. I would suggest this as a starting point for saddle fore/aft position.

I wouldn't move the saddle to adjust the reach to bars. If the reach to the bars is a problem, you NEED a different stem. The fore/aft position on the saddle is more than just the reach to the bars.

I wouldn't necessarily say the bike is too big either. It might be by modern standards but the fashion for small and large frames has come and gone over the years. I'm 5'11 and have a 25" frame I can ride in perfect comfort, it's just slightly borderline for standover height but it was the fashion in 1975 when the frame was made.

Edit: Have a read of this - http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/fitting.htm

It seems strange that men of a certain age don't have a problem with the crossbar as it was known then coming very close to the family jewels. :thumbsup: (I'm one of them lol)
 

Rupie

Über Member
I've come back to cycling after a break of about 20 years but there is one thing I am supprised know one has suggested as your bike is not set correctly. You can fiddle about for ever adjusting this and that or do things properly and have a proper fitting. Its normally free when you buy new (Internet sales cannot add that kind of value to a purchase, and it could stop you buying something not for you) or you can have one done afterwards, at a cost.
You will be amazed at the difference it makes to your performance and enjoyment and the measurements can be applied to every future bike you own. Its like a big upgrade which you can apply many times.
 
Top Bottom