SLIME does it do what it says on the bottle

[naffa]

Basically I've seent his stuff locally and wondered if anyone has any experience of using it?

I would use it as a puncture preventative on my MTB with 2.1 tyres so it'll be in the innertube all the time ready to seal should a puncture occur.

Any comments welcome.

Thanks Nathan

 

[HLaB]

The general view seems to be it doesn't work, it only fixes certain holes and makes a mess but I've never used it so I can't say 100%

 

[byegad]

Yes. And No.

It'll stop pinhole leaks, not anything larger, and eventually will foul the tyre valve or go thick in the tube.

The extra weight in the wheel is also an issue to consider.

 

[curzons246]

I've had it in my 700x22c's for about 10 days and had one puncture from a thorn ( Hedge slashing season ) it sealed the hole once i'd pull the thorn out but let the tyre down from 100psi to 40psi - i think my next move will be tyres that resist punctures - the slime was evident in the valve when i blew the tyre up - cheers Bill

 

[smokeysmoo]

I bought some pre-slimed tubes a few years ago for an MTB I had, the weight was what put me off, they were shockingly heavy

 

[Montague Urban Rider]

I've used slime in the past, and it does work, in the p**cture is 'stopped' although tyre pressure does drop, I was always still able to ride it to work or home, without having to deal with the p**cture, once in the warm dry environment, I fixed the problem.

Now I use Dr Sludge rather the slime. i work on the principle of p**cture resistant tyres, self-seal inner tubes, are the way to go, for the simple reason, i don't want to have to fix a tyre in the dark, wet, and cold, with fully laden panniers of shopping.

The weight, an extra 500g I don't consider an issue, when the weight between a marathon and marathon plus is about 250g per tyre

 

[DCLane]

I've got Slime on the back and Slime Light on the front, which weighs a bit less. Overall they seem to be working, but not as well as a Joe's Road Racing tube that I had on before. The valve is fiddly on both of them and they're heavier than the Joe's Road Racing.

I'm going back to Joe's Road Racing ones next, but since I've not had a puncture for 1500 miles there's no need at the moment.

 

[screenman]

have found from experience that it does work, of course the pressure drops slightly that is what makes the stuff work.

The sealent in one of the bikes on tubeless tyre only uses 30gm, cannot remember the name of the stuff but you would be hard pushed to notice that difference. Unless you are a stick insect type rider it is easier and cheaper to lose 8oz off of the rider rather than the bike.

 

[cyberknight]

I found it does nto work on higher pressure road inner tubes, the air escapes blowing the gunk out before it can seal , gunks up the valve as well.

 

[Panter]

Mate of mine absolutely swears by it, and has had really good results with it too.
Personally, I just ended up swearing at it, just as many punctures only with having to deal with a load of slimey gunk as well.

Sorry that's a little inconclusive

Personally, I rely on tubeless on the MTB's (you can DIY it) to keep punctures at bay

 

[Leilei]

I've not used slime but have heard nothing but bad reports from those who have.

 

[Dan B]

Slime: not so much a product name as a contents warning.

 

[fossyant]

Never bother - TBH I run 23mm light weight road tyres for commuting and have very few 'deflations' - maybe 1 a year. Get yourself good at changing tubes - takes 5 minutes max. And talc the tube - makes life much easier.

 

[Dan B]

Never bother - TBH I run 23mm light weight road tyres for commuting and have very few 'deflations' - maybe 1 a year. Get yourself good at changing tubes - takes 5 minutes max.

Unless you have a solid rear axle and/or chain tugs and/or a hub gear, any or all of which is a good reason to want to minimise unscheduled deflation events. But even then, you're probably better off investing in a tougher tyre (Marathon or something like that) than in Sliming your tubes.