SKS chromoplastic guards with p-clips

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RedRider

Pulling through
There's been the odd spot of rain in the air lately so a person's mind might be turning towards mudguards.
For those with the clearance SKS chromoplastics are an oft recommended option. Here's a few pics of mine for those umm-ing and ah-ing about taking the plunge. They're recently re-fitted to the commuter for their second winter and completely rattle-free.
They look neat on the bike to my eyes...
bike.jpg


There's no eyelets for mudguards on my bike so I've used p-clips on the forks and seat stays to attach them. You can see the p-clip wrapped around the fork here. (Note the SKS 'Secu-Clip'. It's a safety feature designed so the mudguard stay comes out if a foreign object attempts to jam between the guard and tyre.)
frontpclip.jpg


Normally there's no secu-clip on the rear guard but as my single speed has track ends my LBS gave me a couple of spares so I'm able to remove the wheel without taking the whole guard off. Here's the attachment to the seat stay (and can I just say, I thought my bike was clean and well-maintained until I saw this pic of r*st on the track nut. Rest assured, I'm on the case!)...
rearpclip.jpg


And here's where the guard attaches to the front brake mount, the back is similar. You have to take your brake off to do this but honestly, it's easy...
frontmount.jpg


Nice flaps to keep your feet and drive train clean and dry. You can also see how the plastic cap fits over the end of the guard's stay and helps to prevent scratches, puncture wounds and rattles. If like me you find the mudguard stays are too long you'll have to cut them to size. I've heard it said you can use a hacksaw for this job but mine wasn't up to it. I measured the length I needed by fitting the guards without the plastic cap and sliding the stay to the required point. I took it to the LBS who had some kind of biting tool - sorry if this is getting technical - and they cut it for me...

front flap.jpg


There's a reflector on the back...
reflector.jpg


I've got the 'narrow' guards designed for 700x20-28 wheels/tyres. You can see how wide they are compared to a 25mm conti GP4000s tyre...
topview.jpg


They're a bit of a faff to fit neatly for the first time but they're really solid and do the job well. You could always get the shop to do the work. Mine are 'black' and although to my eyes they're on the very dark green side of black it's close enough not to worry.
I recommend them. Hope this has been useful.
 
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crazyjoe101

New Member
Location
London
So if I were to do this on a frame with no eyelets, I would need another black release clip thing so that it would attatch properly at the back?
 
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RedRider

RedRider

Pulling through
So if I were to do this on a frame with no eyelets, I would need another black release clip thing so that it would attatch properly at the back?
It'd be fine without unless you have horizontal track ends (drop outs) like mine in which case the secu-clip means you can take the wheel off (to repair a puncture say) without having to remove the whole guard which would be impractical. I'm going to edit the OP to make this point. Cheers.
 

crazyjoe101

New Member
Location
London
Yes, I see. I'm going to order 3 pairs in that case. 1 pair for the forks (mudguard) and 2 pairs for the back bit (mudguards and pannier). Thanks for this post, it's been really helpful for me.
 
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RedRider

RedRider

Pulling through
Yes, I see. I'm going to order 3 pairs in that case. 1 pair for the forks (mudguard) and 2 pairs for the back bit (mudguards and pannier). Thanks for this post, it's been really helpful for me.
Glad it was useful. @dave r told me about the p-clip solution. A pannier would need another pair of p-clips rather than the secu-clips unless for some reason it would impede the wheel coming out the back. You'd also need to make sure there's somewhere to attach it further up the seat stays (near the seatpost) but if not I'm sure there must be another bodge around. Good luck.

Edit: the guards have one set of secu-clips included already.
 
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crazyjoe101

New Member
Location
London
Glad it was useful. @dave r told me about the p-clip solution. A pannier would need another pair of p-clips rather than the secu-clips unless for some reason it would impede the wheel coming out the back. You'd also need to make sure there's somewhere to attach it further up the seat stays (near the seatpost) but if not I'm sure there must be another bodge around. Good luck.

Edit: the guards have one set of secu-clips included already.

Well I'd not really thought it through anyway... I'm not going to have enough clearance for chromos under the brakes / forks so I'll be getting Raceblade Longs and using them on two bikes (with a spare mounting kit). I can then P-clip a pannier on normally. Doubtless your illustrations can aid someone else though.
 
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RedRider

RedRider

Pulling through
Nice pics.Very helpfull i'm sure.I might even fit some on the steel road bike for the winter.
Cheers. Main thing I wanted to show was you you can have track ends and don't need eyelets to make the chromoplastics work, just clearance. The first pic isn't crystal clear but the bike probably looks better with the guards on than off. I've had a couple of 'nice bike' comments since they went on and for a surly steamroller, although a really solid machine which I love and recommend, that's good going.
 
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andrew_s

Legendary Member
Location
Gloucester
It may be worth putting some self-amalgamating tape around the frame under the P-clips. Left as is, you'll get mud & grit between the P-clip and the frame, and vibration will damage the paintwork.
Sometimes you'll find that the front brake sits too close to the fork, and you have to add spacers to get the mudguard mounting plate out from below the lower headset bearings. If so,you'll also need an longer allen nut for the back end of the brake bolt. These are commonly available for the use of people with fat carbon forks.
SKS mudguard stays are tough. A pair of small size bolt croppers is easiest. I use a dremel & cutting disc, and just snap the end off by bending it back and forth once I'm half way through.

If you can't use the normal brake bolt fitting for some reason, or can't get the mudguard to sit high enough under the fork crown, cable ties make a good alternatinve mounting method, just threaded through holes melted in the mudguard with a hot spoke end.
mudguard2_zps04a95cca.jpg


mudguard1_zps3cc7a1dc.jpg
 

bororider

Well-Known Member
I have these on my hybrid, although I have fixing mounts to screw them onto.
They were an absolute pig to fit initially, trying to get the bars at the right length and to stay in position.

Having said that once they're set they are a doddle to remove from the bike and put back on. They keep me dry from the wet roads and don't look too shabby
 
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