Single Speed Chain Adjuster

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iendicott

Well-Known Member
Location
Peterborough
Does anyone know where I can buy a set of chain adjusters that would work on a 2010 Specialized Langster drop out ?

I am paranoid that I don't tighten the chain up enough and get the rear wheel perfectly straight at the same time.

Maybe there is a knack to doing it but I haven't quiet worked out how to yet. :blush:
Tried doing one nut up tight'ish on one side then pull the wheel into the straight position but this ends up always loosening the chain.

Thanks Ivan
 

threebikesmcginty

Corn Fed Hick...
Location
...on the slake
On One do a couple depending which way you want to tension the chain, tbh I'd learn how to get it right without one if you don't need one.

They can be noisy - you won't like it.
 

GrumpyGregry

Here for rides.
charliethebikemonger sells ones that are good and cheap. outstanding imo. But St Sheldon says you must never use them to align your wheel and tension your chain. That you have to learn to do properly. This is one of the few pieces of St Sheldon's advice I totally ignore.
 
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iendicott

iendicott

Well-Known Member
Location
Peterborough
Greg,

Looked at Sheldon Brown's site after you mentioned it and found the following which I kind of do allready. When I bought the bike the chain was fairly tight. Being a kid of the 70's \ 80's I was always told not to tighten the chain up to much and to have a tiny bit of slack so I slackened off the chain a little, this is obviously not the case nowadays especially on Single Speeds.


Rear Wheel Installation




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hen your install the rear wheel, there are basically three things you need to adjust simultaneously:
  • The wheel needs to be straight. This basically means that the tire needs to be centered between the frame's chainstays. If you get it centered between the chainstays, it is properly aligned.
  • The chain tension needs to be correct. (See previous section )
  • The axle nuts or quick release skewer need to be tight. Note: if you have a nutted axle, it is vitally important that the threads be properly lubricated with grease or oil. You should also have grease or oil on the contact surface where the axle nut presses agains the washer that contacts the frame.
Some folks who are used to derailer bikes find it frustrating, especially with a nutted hub. This is usually because they don't know the technique of "walking" the wheel back and forth in the fork ends.

Start by installing the wheel at approximately the correct position and tightening the axle nuts. They don't need to be super tight at this stage, but should more than finger tight. Check the chain tension and wheel alignment.

Most likely, the chain will be a bit loose, but perhaps the wheel is correctly aligned. Loosen one of the axle nuts and push the tire to the side so that the loose side of the axle moves to the rear, then tighten the axle nut you loosened.

Now the chain tension should be better, but the wheel is no longer centered between the chainstays. Loosen the other axle nut and re-center the wheel in the frame. This will actually tighten the chain a little bit more.

The key is to keep one or the other of the axle nuts tight at all times, and "walk" the wheel forward and back.

This takes a bit of practice and getting used to how much axle movement is needed to adjust a given amount of chain droop, but it isn't really hard as long as you keep one side secured at all times. Note, this technique doesn't work with a quick release hub, but those are generally easier anyway.



 
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