Shorter stem,

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Tom Hooper

Active Member
Location
northumberland
After my accident i lost two inches in height, so my just right bike frame is two large. I have seen deda stems are around £21 for a 70/80mm stem. Currently i have my saddle pushed as far foward as i can get it. I have 120mm on currently
 

vickster

Legendary Member
Is it a roadbike? A 70-80mm stem may make the bike feel twitchy, perhaps try 100mm first, or get your LBS to do a fit
 

Linford

Guest
I had a 110 on mine when it was recovered (after being stolen and ridden for a couple of years), I swapped it out for a 90, as well as a new saddle (Spesh), I took advice on both, and then fine tuned it myself. Saddle shouldn't be all the way forward though.
 
After my accident i lost two inches in height, so my just right bike frame is two large. I have seen deda stems are around £21 for a 70/80mm stem. Currently i have my saddle pushed as far foward as i can get it. I have 120mm on currently

If you've lost two inches in height, there may be more going on than necessitates simply the changing of a stem. Two inches in height is a lot.

I'd just start (if I were you) as if setting up a new bike.

1. Set the saddle height: I use the method where I can just lock my knee with my heel on the pedal. It's usually within half a centimetre of my favourite height.

2. Saddle fore & aft: I hold a plumb line from the bottom of my kneeecap with the crank arm level and forward. The line should pass straight through the fulcrum pf the pedal. If it doesn't, I move the seat forward or backward until it does.

3. Handlebar height: this is subject to so much whim and superstition that you can just go for whatever you want to suit your own preferences or adapt to any old injuries.

4. Stem length: Riding on the hoods, I want the handlebar to obscure the hub of the front wheel. If the hub appears ahead of the handlebar, I fit a longer stem. if behind, a shorter one.

All of that can be done with just a length of string with a weight attached (for the plumbline). It takes maybe 20 minutes and will not be too far out. Everybody tunes their own little preferences or adaptations into their riding position, but the method above is a good place to start.

I change the settings in the order I describe because everything is dependent on everything else. I like to get the legs/arse sorted and then move on up.

Good luck and have fun!
 

gbb

Squire
Location
Peterborough
For the sake of £21, id try an 80. I run a 70 on mine,, its short compared to most roadbikes, but I prefer to think it makes the bike responsive, not twitchy. I find no negative issues with a short stem (chosen in my case to retain saddle to handlebar distance on different frames)
 

Chris Norton

Well-Known Member
Location
Boston, Lincs
Odd question but where have you lost the height? If it's in the leg then stem length will not really mean anything. If it's in the torso then moving the bars back along with the saddle may sort what you want to achieve.
 

Linford

Guest
My LBS has a selection of stems to try, they were happy to let me swap and chop until I found one I could live with, and only charged me for the one I settled on (this took a few weeks of trial and error)...what more could you ask :smile:

They are http://www.cheltenhamcycles.co.uk/ (shameless plug)
 
OP
OP
Tom Hooper

Tom Hooper

Active Member
Location
northumberland
Odd question but where have you lost the height? If it's in the leg then stem length will not really mean anything. If it's in the torso then moving the bars back along with the saddle may sort what you want to achieve.
From my spine, 5 fractured vertebre, saving for a new frame/bike so looking for a comprise in the mean time
 

raindog

er.....
Location
France
You'll be fine with the short stem - go for it. Try to move the saddle back a bit though when you've fitted the stem - not good to be on max forward or aft - you can end up bending the rails.
 

Widge

Baldy Go
Being somewhat short in the body, I swapped out my 110 mm stem for a 90mm one. I read around the subject a lot on internet forums and 'fitting' sites (although I confess I have never been for a proper bike-shop measuring fit with all the angle-o-meters and motion capture dots etc.)
I was told that a 90mm stem would suddenly make my bike twitchy and uncontrollable...but it didn't. It made it feel more comfortable and rideable.

If you have a specific issue body/fit wise that you would really like to get sorted...then I am sure that a professional fit is the way to go.............but I am also fairly sure that (within limits) you can learn to trust what your body feels is right.

Having said that - I wouldn't fancy a stem much shorter than 90mm on a road bike. I have seen some crazee short and angled stems that really don't look right/or safe and would be better suited to an upright Dutch Bike! You DO need a certain amount of upper body over the front wheel of a road/race bike IMO.
 

gbb

Squire
Location
Peterborough
The perception that a short stem will cause almost uncontrollable twitchyness...where did itcome from ?.
Technically I dont doubt the validity of short stem = more responsive steering. Some may call it twitchy, I call it responsive. It may not be for everyone, some may like a steadier more relaxed steering input, but even on a 70mm stem, I really dont feel that different on my bike compared to previous setups.
Where I DID feel a difference was with a 100mm plus stem plus quite a large rake on the front forks on a 80s frame, that was like steering a battelship, absolutely useless for commuting in traffic.
Perhaps thats why I like a short stem, I like to get in there in traffic. I can ride with one hand on the hoods, looking behind me, with the other hand perhaps signalling, I'm still stable and able to maintain line. I think its probably true (twitchiness/increased responsiveness)...but its overstated.
 

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