Shifting Only Works Every Two Clicks

[Pidge]

Hi everyone,

I bought a new e-mtb around 6 weeks ago. Shifting was perfect for a few weeks, then it gradually got worse, to the point that it only shifts up or down every two clicks. Basically missing every other cog on the cassette, making my 1x12 a 1x6 pretty much.

I've adjusted the H and L screws and they are aligned perfectly. But I'm not sure what other things can cause this to happen.

Any ideas?

 

[raleighnut]

The cables have settled in so the cable tension is all to cock, BTW the H and L screws are limit stops, they don't affect shifting they're just there to prevent the mech falling off the ends of the cassette.

 

[fossyant]

12 speed is really fussy about being set up. If sram have you used the special doobrie to set the B screw.

As it's new, take it back to the shop. My other suggestion, is use a top quality cable (SRAM or Shimano) if it's got generic ones on it.

Also check cable and mech for mud and crud ingress.

 

[CanucksTraveller]

Nearly all bike shops (especially independents) offer a "free service" a couple of months after purchase of a new bike. It's really intended to address precisely that "cable settling in" process that happens naturally with a new bike. Check with the retailer first, they may have included that and will do it for you for nothing.

If not, (and if like me you're cack handed with indexing, not everyone finds it easy), then drop it in to them anyway, it's a very cheap job that they'll do quickly.

 

[Lovacott]

Hi everyone,

I bought a new e-mtb around 6 weeks ago. Shifting was perfect for a few weeks, then it gradually got worse, to the point that it only shifts up or down every two clicks. Basically missing every other cog on the cassette, making my 1x12 a 1x6 pretty much.

I've adjusted the H and L screws and they are aligned perfectly. But I'm not sure what other things can cause this to happen.

Any ideas?

If the bike is new, the cable has most likely stretched a tiny bit (as others have said).

There should be a barrel adjuster where the cable enters the rear mech where you can make minor adjustments to tension (which is generally all that is needed).

 

[screenman]

Boring I know but that sounds like an alignment problem, I have fixed a few that do that using the correct tool.

 

[Pidge]

I bought the bike from Germany, so can't really send it in. Besides, I really like tinkering with my bikes, so before I admit defeat and send it to the local shop I'd like to explore all avenues.

Boring I know but that sounds like an alignment problem, I have fixed a few that do that using the correct tool.

This was my first thought so I checked the alignment and set my limits and it was still the same. A mate said it could be a slightly bent hanger, but eyeballing it looks straight.

12 speed is really fussy about being set up. If sram have you used the special doobrie to set the B screw.

As it's new, take it back to the shop. My other suggestion, is use a top quality cable (SRAM or Shimano) if it's got generic ones on it.

Also check cable and mech for mud and crud ingress.

It's SRAM, but I've been struggling to find that B screw guide thingy in-stock. Bike came with a SRAM cable so it should be decent quality.

One thing I forgot to mention was when I've been indexing my gears in the bike stand or the old upside down bike method, it changes really smoothly. It only goes to pot when I'm sat on it. Any ideas why it's fine in the stand but crap under weight?

 

[raleighnut]

This was my first thought so I checked the alignment and set my limits and it was still the same. A mate said it could be a slightly bent hanger, but eyeballing it looks straight.

You can't really 'eyeball' alignment, it needs checking with a tool.

 

[screenman]

You can't really 'eyeball' alignment, it needs checking with a tool.

Thank you for saving me from typing that.

 

[Pidge]

You can't really 'eyeball' alignment, it needs checking with a tool.

What tool might this be?

 

[Big John]

Hanger alignment tool. Unless you plan on doing hanger checking for a living it's more cost effective to take the bike into your LBS. Will take a mechanic a few minutes to check. My guess is the charge won't be much. They won't just check it either - the tool they use also helps straighten the hanger. If you decide to get your own tool Rose Bikes has a basic one under £30 plus carriage and YouTube will show you how to use it properly. Be sure to carry a spare hanger just in case the old one snaps - it has been known to happen 🤬

 

[raleighnut]

What tool might this be?

Hanger alignment tool. Unless you plan on doing hanger checking for a living it's more cost effective to take the bike into your LBS. Will take a mechanic a few minutes to check. My guess is the charge won't be much. They won't just check it either - the tool they use also helps straighten the hanger. If you decide to get your own tool Rose Bikes has a basic one under £30 plus carriage and YouTube will show you how to use it properly. Be sure to carry a spare hanger just in case the old one snaps - it has been known to happen 🤬

Wot e sed.

 

[AKHiker]

Figuring you've checked the cables are clean and moving freely, I'd check the b gap. Yes it's another bike tool to buy but $5 or less most likely. Since it can come out of alignment in just a few rides, worth it IMO.

If that doesn't work very possibly the derailleur alignment, I'd spring for the derailleur hanger alignment tool. I resisted for a while thinking how much would I use it but it's a fantastic tool. Mine was $55. There are some more expensive and quite a few that are cheaper. If you used it twice it should pay for itself even if your LBS is reasonably priced.

Lots of videos on using both tools on youtube.

Think of bike stand work as the prep for the test. Performance under a weight load is once in a while surprisingly different from what seems perfect on the stand. Even when I get new bikes on spec to sell I test ride. Incredibly frustrating to find new parts are faulty but it happens