servicing problems

[KateK]

Sorry guys but I'm a bit clueless in the technical section... Just got a 1980's ladies Raleigh serviced by bike shop and took it out today... now I'm used to a 5 speed bike of same type and it's going to take me time to get used to 10 speed but...unpredictably when I'm changing gears on the rear derailleur they just disengage and I peddle pointlessly for a couple of revolutions till it takes the new gear...very annoying on busy roads or going up hill. Also to switch the front derailleur I have to pull the lever all the way down..from about 11.30 to 7-8 oclock if you see what I mean, I feel like shouting Engines Reverse every time I do it. is this normal? Lastly, when I got back, I noticed that they had cut about half of one of the new back brake blocks away...At first I thought Good God, how did I manage to wear away half a brake block in one 22 mile outing, then I saw the knife marks. I'm sure my other bike shop never did this..I know old side pull callipers are a pain to centre but they're professionals. I'm just confused.

 

[Scilly Suffolk]

Take it back.

 

[KateK]

Take it back.

Really?

 

[Scilly Suffolk]

First up, you paid money for a service that you're not happy with: at the very least they should put your mind at rest by explaining what has been done, why it has been done and whether the results are acceptable.

As for your specific queries:
- I guess that you have indexed downtube shifters: the gear shift lever clicks into place when you change gear? In which case they have not been "indexed" correctly; as they are nearly correct (they do select gear eventually) it should just be a case of adjusting the cable tension via the adjuster, but the shop should have done this before returning the bike.

- There is a lot more travel in the front dérailleur, compared to the rear. On mine the lever is all the way forward to the stop, to engage the small ring and comes back to just past the vertical to engage the largest. Please note that different brands of shifter will "pull" different amounts of cable, so the amount of lever travel will vary (a lever with a greater circumference will "pull" more cable so move less).

- I can think of no circumstances that justify cutting away part of a brake block. This strikes me as both dangerous and shockingly unprofessional.

As an owner of two "old" (1989 & 1991) bikes, it is my experience that the vast majority of bike shops treat me as, at best, an inconvenience, and, at worst, an eccentric for the fleecing. They are set-up for modern bikes for which they can charge handsomely because they have become too complicated for the "average Joe" to service.

Being as bike shops are predominantly male preserves, you are also likely to be given the 1970's style "it's supposed to be like that Luv" treatment: go there with a firm idea of what you expect; ask for the Manager if you're not convinced; contact Trading Standards if you are still not satisfied.

 

[KateK]

Thank you Jimmy the whiskers. My gears are not indexed, they are friction gears and stem mounted (thanks Richard's Bicycle Book)...it is a Wisp, so low spec even in the 80s. Maybe I'm just being really naff with the gear changes but I managed all right with my old bike even though it was completely knackered and dropped the chain if I wasn't really careful about changing up early going downhill. I just think I should be all right on the flat for goodness sake. The front gear advice is useful as my husband said it sounded all right, but now he says he never had a 10 speed. 120 degrees just seems a lot of movement, it means your hand is off the handlebars for a long time and the gear changing is very slow.
My suspicion about the brake block is that they couldn't centre it. When I first picked it up the brake blocks were about 7mm away from the rims and I had practically no braking power...that was an exciting ride back to the shop!

 

[Tim Hall]

- I can think of no circumstances that justify cutting away part of a brake block. This strikes me as both dangerous and shockingly unprofessional.

I can. If the existing block was misaligned and then been used in that position it can wear into an "L" shape when viewed from the end. The horizontal part of the "L" protrudes towards the spokes, as it hasn't been worn away by the rim, if you see what I mean.

Trim it back with a Stanley knife and realign the block and you're good to go.

 

[biggs682]

you dont sound happy and cant blame you for that , take it back and ask them to explain why and what they did and then you can tell them your concerns and see what they say or offer

 

[totallyfixed]

Kate, you might find it easier to take someone with you who has a bit of experience, not to mention a bit of moral support. I think there are quite a few of us on here who do our own servicing and I am sure if you asked someone would be happy to lend a hand.

 

[Scilly Suffolk]

I can. If the existing block was misaligned and then been used in that position it can wear into an "L" shape when viewed from the end. The horizontal part of the "L" protrudes towards the spokes, as it hasn't been worn away by the rim, if you see what I mean.

Trim it back with a Stanley knife and realign the block and you're good to go.

True for an "existing" brake block, but the OP specified that it was "new".

 

[Scilly Suffolk]

My gears are not indexed, they are friction gears...

Have a look at this page, it might give you a better idea as to what the problem is and give you more confidence when tackling the shop.

 

[HovR]

At first I thought Good God, how did I manage to wear away half a brake block in one 22 mile outing, then I saw the knife marks. I'm sure my other bike shop never did this..I know old side pull callipers are a pain to centre but they're professionals.

If they cut down the brake blocks to centre them, that's some shocking workmanship. If I can do it, then a bike shop sure as heck should be able to. Personally, I'd want a new set of brake blocks as the cut down ones will both wear down quicker and unevenly - Not of a satisfactory quality.

 

[Herzog]

Take it back, sounds like a very shoddy job.

 

[KateK]

Thanks guys, Yes it was a NEW brake block, and it sounds like it's misaligned as well as they have cut it to an L shape curve that hangs under the rim, you can see the knife marks. bizarre huh. Anyway, as for the gears.... I will look at that page Jimmy, I can ride it as it is and I need a few outings to get the hang of what is me and what is the bike not set up right. I went out friday and managed it better...the friction is set a lot tighter than my old bike, it makes it hard to shift smoothly so I will try and loosen that off a bit before I go out (it has a plastic butterfly so I can adjust on the move anyway). My left hand shifting is rubbish still, must try to use my left hand, that would be a start! Try it for this week and then take it back next (when the weather changes!) at the very least to get the brake block replaced.
And thanks, totallyfixed, I am just lacking in confidence a lot. that combined with cluelessness is a recipe for inaction. I hopefully going to see a friend in the not to near distant future who is an expert (but lives several hundred miles away) and I'm going to ask him very nicely if he will help me set the bike up right...so I can reach the brakes from the hoods would be nice...