servicing hubs.

[Willam]

Got a pair of Roval el wheels http://www.evanscycles.com/products/roval/traverse-el-disc-2010-wheelset-ec029583 , think they need a service as there is some play in the wheel (rocks back and forwards), question is are these easy serviced, my limit up to now changing break and gears, they have sealed cartridges, do I replace these or open the cartridges and replace the bearings? I could take them to my LBS but would prefer to do it myself if not too completed or expensive for the tools needed.

Thanks

 

[mrandmrspoves]

If you have sealed bearings that are worn they will need replacing as a unit. Before you do this, it is worth making sure that the axle is adjusted so there is not excessive play. On the rear wheel you will need to remove the sprocket (gear cluster) to get to the axle and bearings. Sealed cartridge bearings can be quite a tight fit and sometimes you will need to tap the axle with a mallet to shift them. I would suggest having a look at the front wheel first as it is easier. If the axle needs adjusting to take slack out on the front wheel, the back is likely to need the same. If the front bearings are FUBAR the rear will be as well.

 

[Profpointy]

as an aside to the above, if hubs have (standard industrial?) sealed bearings, is there any point in buying blingtastic expensive hubs at all? Presumably the bearings are the crucial bit, which would be literally the same units in any half-decent hub. I fancied some Royce or whatever next time, more for bling appeal than need, but if they really are the same once your over the crap-o-meter level, is it just silly?

 

[Willam]

If you have sealed bearings that are worn they will need replacing as a unit. Before you do this, it is worth making sure that the axle is adjusted so there is not excessive play. On the rear wheel you will need to remove the sprocket (gear cluster) to get to the axle and bearings. Sealed cartridge bearings can be quite a tight fit and sometimes you will need to tap the axle with a mallet to shift them. I would suggest having a look at the front wheel first as it is easier. If the axle needs adjusting to take slack out on the front wheel, the back is likely to need the same. If the front bearings are FUBAR the rear will be as well.

cheers, is adjustment of the axle just a matter of tightening it?

think I will give it a go, any recommendations on where to buy the sealed cartridges from?

 

[mrandmrspoves]

Yes, if the axle is slightly loose, you just undo the lock nut and tighten the inner nut slightly then tighten the lock nut while making sure that the inner nut is not rotating.
The problem with cartridge bearings is getting the exact replacement.....some are easier to find than others. You may have different size cartridge in front and rear. Hopefully you won't need them but if you do, you may need to take the bearings with you to a good LBS.

 

[Tim Hall]

I'd remove the old cartridges and take them to my local industrial bearing supplier, ask for more like this, hand over a crispy tenner and away. Look up "bearing supplier" in your nearest big town.

 

[accountantpete]

You just tap the old bearings out after removing the axle - the bearings should have a code number on the plastic and this is the bearing you want.

 

[mrandmrspoves]

as an aside to the above, if hubs have (standard industrial?) sealed bearings, is there any point in buying blingtastic expensive hubs at all? Presumably the bearings are the crucial bit, which would be literally the same units in any half-decent hub. I fancied some Royce or whatever next time, more for bling appeal than need, but if they really are the same once your over the crap-o-meter level, is it just silly?

There is a general rule of ever diminishing returns once you get above a certain price point with almost anything cycling related. I think that cartridge hub bearings are a definite improvement on standard bearing hubs because when the bearing becomes worn you remove it all so no worn hub races remain. A good set of wheels is defined more by the quality of the rims, the spokes used and the relative strength of the wheel compared with its weight.