servicing a hollowtech 2 bb bracket

[jackthelad]

guys when removing the left crank lock screw is the park bbt9 good enough or are you better having a park bbt 10 to avoid stripping the thread or doing any damage,any advice appreciated.

PPs ws wondering where to get the 90 degree pick driver from for pulling out the bottom bracket seals for cleaning and re-greasing



any help appreciated

jackthelad

 

[zacklaws]

I do not have the Park BBT9 tool but you will need it or something similar to remove the BB itself. If you get the BBT10, then you will have to buy the BBT9 or something similar as the BBT10 only removes the lock screw, so it would be better to just buy the BBT9 as you would need it and if it cannot remove the locknut then buy a BBT10, if the BBT9 does then you you will not incur additional costs. ( I wrote this while I was on night shift, made sense to me at that time of morning anyway)

I have always found the the locknut is never tight once you loosen off the two bolts at the end of the crank arm and is usually only finger tight. But even destroying the locknut (its only plastic) to remove it and replace it may work out also a cheaper option than buying an additional tool.

I have the Icetoolz, hollowtech 2 BB, all it is just a metal disk that fits both the locknut and the BB itself and an allen key fits in the middle. To remove the BB, I found I needed a bar, a meter long to just get the BB free, and even the bar was bending, and when it went I thought I had broke my frame with the loud crack it made when it came free.

http://www.tredz.co....-Tool_37724.htm

 

[Angelfishsolo]

A pair of pliers and a 20p piece makes a great locknut removal tool

I do not have the Park BBT9 tool but you will need it or something similar to remove the BB itself. If you get the BBT10, then you will have to buy the BBT9 or something similar as the BBT10 only removes the lock screw, so it would be better to just buy the BBT9 as you would need it and if it cannot remove the locknut then buy a BBT10, if the BBT9 does then you you will not incur additional costs. ( I wrote this while I was on night shift, made sense to me at that time of morning anyway)

I have always found the the locknut is never tight once you loosen off the two bolts at the end of the crank arm and is usually only finger tight. But even destroying the locknut (its only plastic) to remove it and replace it may work out also a cheaper option than buying an additional tool.

I have the Icetoolz, hollowtech 2 BB, all it is just a metal disk that fits both the locknut and the BB itself and an allen key fits in the middle. To remove the BB, I found I needed a bar, a meter long to just get the BB free, and even the bar was bending, and when it went I thought I had broke my frame with the loud crack it made when it came free.

http://www.tredz.co....-Tool_37724.htm