Self loosening headset

[Shack]

Afternoon all, I wasn't sure if I should post this here or in a tech section, but here we go;

My headset loosens itself after 5 miles or so, and can only be done up finger tight without losing its free rotation (becomes notchy, then if tightened Futher just fails to rotate at all)

It's an 87 vintage Raleigh, the ball-bearings are all present and reasonable condition and lightly greased.

No 'obvious' wear on the frame, but will have maybe 20k miles on it (had it from new)

Where shall I start my process of elimination?

 

[MontyVeda]

Does the headset have a lock ring? Has it been disassembled recently? Sounds like the part that stops it from loosening is missing.

 

[Paulus]

Sounds like you are not doing the locknut up tight enough.
It takes two spanners normally, one to hold the adjuster in place once you have the adjustment right, and the other to tighten the locknut.

 

[biggs682]

@Shack what ever you do don't use loctite or any other locking aganet.

As others have suggested perhaps the lock ring is missing or are you doing it using spanners ?

 

[Shack]

Thanks all, I will have another go in the morning, it has a knurled ring (which I tighten by hand as I'm going down a hill and it all gets a bit interesting) then a spacer that doubles as a cable hanger then the lock nut, from memory only one nut, and certainly only space/ height for one (unless there are two that have fused together-certainly warrants investigation) and that's it
I'll rummage around the nut conundrum, and post any updates.

 

[Shack]

Does the headset have a lock ring? Has it been disassembled recently? Sounds like the part that stops it from loosening is missing.

I took it apart and cleaned and greased the other month, but this was in response to it loosening.
I didn't have any bits left over after reassembly.

 

[midlife]

The cable hanger can double as a washer if needed. On top of the knurled part there should be some spanner flats. You need two big spanners, might need a thin headset spanner.

Have you got the right size big spanner?

 

[Cycleops]

This might help you out:


View: https://youtu.be/cCfTzvoMofQ

 

[Shack]

This might help you out:


View: https://youtu.be/cCfTzvoMofQ

Thanks for that, nice and clear video. I have adjusted and serviced it numerous times in its life, which is why I was wondering if something new is in the equation. I'll check out tomorrow and take some pictures if I can't get to the bottom of it.

 

[raleighnut]

If you've got the bottom part (knurled nut) too tight the tightening the top locknut will cause the headset to 'lock up'
You need to lock the 2 nuts together tightly

 

[rogerzilla]

If it cannot be adjusted, the head tube and fork crown race seat need facing. This makes a world of difference. A bike shop can do it. Don't let them use ISO tools if your fork is 26tpi threaded - in that case, they must use JIS tools, which are the same dimensions as Raleigh.

 

[Shack]

If you've got the bottom part (knurled nut) too tight the tightening the top locknut will cause the headset to 'lock up'
You need to lock the 2 nuts together tightly

Sadly I have only one lock nut, it goes knurled nut, two interlocking parts ( that don't seem to do anything) the washer/cable hanger then one lock nut that is round at its base, hopefully the photo is clear.

 

[Dogtrousers]

If it cannot be adjusted, the head tube and fork crown race seat need facing. This makes a world of difference. A bike shop can do it. Don't let them use ISO tools if your fork is 26tpi threaded - in that case, they must use JIS tools, which are the same dimensions as Raleigh.

I was going to suggest this. When I was a teenager I installed a headset myself, with a hammer. Naturally the planes of the top and bottom races weren't parallel. It was crap and you couldn't adjust it so it worked smoothly. But I rode it for about 10 years anyway. I'd never heard of facing or bearing presses. It took the internet to reveal such things to me, by which time it was too late.

 

[MontyVeda]

I was going to suggest this. When I was a teenager I installed a headset myself, with a hammer. Naturally the planes of the top and bottom races weren't parallel. It was crap and you couldn't adjust it so it worked smoothly. But I rode it for about 10 years anyway. I'd never heard of facing or bearing presses. It took the internet to reveal such things to me, by which time it was too late.

I did exactly the same thing on my old Sun-Solo, which also got a great many years' use afterwards. According to the internet, the races will settle themselves by simply riding it, but that never happened in my case.

 

[Shack]

Well I've been 'working from home' today so was able to have a play, I'll need a decent test ride (pouring down now, naturally) but after adjusting the knurled ring and tightening down the only top ring (took a few attempts to strike the right balance) I'm hopeful of a good outcome, I need a good bouncy downhill to test it out proper though.

I think I mustn't have been finicky enough after its last clean/ grease setting the resistance before locking down

Thanks everyone for their ideas and experience, if the test ride isn't great I'll feedback and might be more involved and beyond me and my tools