Rusty chain on old bike
- Thread starter rliu
- Start date
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chillyuk
Guest
If it's heavily rusted scrap it and buy a new one and a cassette.
If economics make this difficult you could try a good wire brush, get all the rust off you are able, then give it a good soak in oil. If the links are not seized you may get some more life out of it.
If economics make this difficult you could try a good wire brush, get all the rust off you are able, then give it a good soak in oil. If the links are not seized you may get some more life out of it.
biggs682
Itching to get back on my bike's
- Location
- Northamptonshire
chillyuk i agree
gbb
Squire
- Location
- Peterborough
For me it depends on how many speed chain it is.
I did an old 3 speed Dawes up for my SIL, the chain was absolutely siezed solid and rusty. Plenty of WD, then some more, then some more, working it in, working all the siezed links free, then soaked in oil for a day or so...its been fine. Doesnt look pretty, but functional.
But i wouldnt do that on a 10/9 or maybe even an 8 speed chain. I work on the (perhaps misguided) principle that old, heavy chains will take the abuse more. Also, my SIL isnt one to rush about, she'll put little or no real strain on the chain.
I did an old 3 speed Dawes up for my SIL, the chain was absolutely siezed solid and rusty. Plenty of WD, then some more, then some more, working it in, working all the siezed links free, then soaked in oil for a day or so...its been fine. Doesnt look pretty, but functional.
But i wouldnt do that on a 10/9 or maybe even an 8 speed chain. I work on the (perhaps misguided) principle that old, heavy chains will take the abuse more. Also, my SIL isnt one to rush about, she'll put little or no real strain on the chain.
swee'pea99
Squire
One thing to look out for - make sure that you don't at any point have links that are actually seized together. As long as each individual link can move in relation to both its neighbours, you should be ok.
To revive the chain, put some diesel in an old biscuit tin and leave the chain to soak for a few days. Leave to dry of and then lube with engine oil.
Design of brake levers vary but if you pull the brake lever and look into it behind where the lever sits in it's normal position, I would expect to see a screw head which will release the clamp on the bar. You will need to remove the bar tape or grips to get it off. The cable shouldn't be that difficult to fit. Most will come with a different end ("barrel" and "pear") on each end of the cable. You cut off the end you don't need. Check your old cable to indentify which you need to keep. Thread it through lever, the outer cable and/or frame guides to the caliper. If you need to cut the outer cable, file the burs off and poke a nail into it to open up the cut end to reduce frcition.
Design of brake levers vary but if you pull the brake lever and look into it behind where the lever sits in it's normal position, I would expect to see a screw head which will release the clamp on the bar. You will need to remove the bar tape or grips to get it off. The cable shouldn't be that difficult to fit. Most will come with a different end ("barrel" and "pear") on each end of the cable. You cut off the end you don't need. Check your old cable to indentify which you need to keep. Thread it through lever, the outer cable and/or frame guides to the caliper. If you need to cut the outer cable, file the burs off and poke a nail into it to open up the cut end to reduce frcition.
