Rumbling Block

[jonny jeez]

Hi all.

I replaced my cassette last month, brand new, fitted by the LBS.

before I swapped it out it was rumbling a bit and even wobbled a little when I free wheeled. This and the fact that my chain snapped was the motivation to swap the block.

Thing is, a few weeks have passed and the replacement block is now also rumbling. Its occasional but occurs every ride (I ride for about an hour a day...ish).

I'm about to drop it back to the LBS to sort but before I do I wanted any suggestions from you fine folk as to what might be causing this issue, I basically don't want the LBS to pull the wool over my eyes and try to sell me a set of new skyhooks.


Cheers

 

[fossyant]

A new cassette won't rumble, that will be the freehub that's rumbling as a cassette has no moving parts.

Cheapest option is regrease and new bearings.
Next option is a new freehub - more likely

And sometimes, a new wheel !

 

[jonny jeez]

Cheers Fossy.

I actually though the hub came with the block.

so that makes sense.

I'll regrease tomorrow night and see how she gets on.

J

 

[fossyant]

If its a typical Shimano or Shimano compatible hub, so long as the non drive side is ok, you can get away with buying a new hub (cheaper than a free hub on its own) and just replace the freehub. The freehub has the drive side cups for the bearings, and if these get pitted, then it's easier to get a new hub and break that for parts, saves a wheel build. If the non drive side has gone, then unless you can fit new bearings, and the cup race isn't too badly pitted then you can get away with a grease, but bear in mind a new hub will be needed at some point.

If it runs on cartridge bearings then you can remove these and replace. They can also be greased if the seals are popped off.

 

[accountantpete]

Is it a freewheel or freehub?

 

[jonny jeez]

Is it a freewheel or freehub?

Cassette, freehub.

not free wheel

 

[jonny jeez]

If its a typical Shimano or Shimano compatible hub, so long as the non drive side is ok, you can get away with buying a new hub (cheaper than a free hub on its own) and just replace the freehub. The freehub has the drive side cups for the bearings, and if these get pitted, then it's easier to get a new hub and break that for parts, saves a wheel build. If the non drive side has gone, then unless you can fit new bearings, and the cup race isn't too badly pitted then you can get away with a grease, but bear in mind a new hub will be needed at some point.

If it runs on cartridge bearings then you can remove these and replace. They can also be greased if the seals are popped off.

so I re greased the bearings, none of the cups seem pitted, all smooth and cleaned out. Ran a cloth right through the hub to the other side to clean out all the gunk too. Re greased and replaced the ball-bearings.

BUT, When I tighten up the axel, should there be any play at all.?

If I tighten too far the wheel wont turn smoothly, if i slack it off a tiny bit the wheel spins nicely but there is a tiniest....weanyest bit of play in the axel.
PS, when I spin the wheel in my hands the free hub catches occasionally so its clear it needs replacing but I want to know about the play issue for my own knowledge.

 

[fossyant]

You do need to leave a bit of play as when you do up the quick release this takes up the slack.

 

[jonny jeez]

cheers

 

[jonny jeez]

You do need to leave a bit of play as when you do up the quick release this takes up the slack.

So, i put every thing back a few hours ago (actually at about 2.00!) and now when i free wheel the crank wants to turn slightly, i can stop it with a tiny amount of pressure and the free hub clicks but if i back pedal the crank, the freehub is too slow and the chain clags up and derails.

I know i need a new free hub but wonder why, from just regreasing the bearings, its got so much worse...have i overtightened something maybe?

 

[fossyant]

Just ride it. No fix then ask again.

 

[fossyant]

Extra grease can cause a bit of drag, so see how it settles down after riding.

 

[jonny jeez]

Extra grease can cause a bit of drag, so see how it settles down after riding.

It gets worse.

I rode it.

It was lush, smooth and silent.

then, 30 minutes in...Click...whassat? followed by...clcik...click...clickity click.

Every time I hit a tiny bump or put a fair amount of pressure on....click

By the time I got to work (20 miles or so) its was clicking like crazy, as if the deraileur was catching or the indexing was shot. neither was the case. Got to work and in my lunch break (at 3.30!!) I had a look and noticed a good deal of play in the wheel. Walked the bike up to the LBS which is 5 mins from my office and asked if they could nip up the bearing, their mechanic had left so I gingerly rode her home..another 20 miles. All the while the clicking was getting worse until about mid way in it just stayed the same, no worse but pretty constant.

Tonight was the first time I've had a chance to take a proper look.

Stripped of the block and loosened the cones. Non drive side showed clean white lithium grease. Drive side had grey-black grease...after 40 miles of riding since the last regreasing.

The small plastic seal on the drive side seems to be slightly out of shape, with a thread or two of its edge fraying away. Took the cones out and had a really good look and the drive side cone is pitted along one quarter of its circumference. The inside of the bearing seems clean and smooth although its tough to tell for sure as I cant get in there to examine it really closely.

So....what to do?

I was going to take the wheel, minus the block along to the LBS and get some new cones and balls and re fit them. Question is, will this be fruitless, do I need a new hub...bearing...WHEEL!

EDIT-Oh as a ps, when I cleaned the bearings (balls) two of them were marginally less shiny that the rest. I cant say for sure but I'm fairly certain they were all the same 2 days ago when I cleaned them....but they all looked round

 

[fossyant]

Pitting on the freehub side means a new freehub. Get a whole matching hub as its cheaper, and you have new bearings and cones.