Fnaar
Smutmaster General
- Location
- Thumberland
Mrs Fnaar read it too, and she's also getting moist.my eyes are moist![]()
Mrs Fnaar read it too, and she's also getting moist.my eyes are moist![]()
Destroys worlds in the most wonderful way.
All I can say is the tyres wern't up to much, I got my Viking in 2008, I rode (or rather pushed in some cases) my way to London the day (well four days) I got it, that was Dewsbury, first proper day I got a puncture, well I thought it was (well I suppose technically it was) what happen is i hit a pot hole that hard it pushed the rubber of the tube into the holes for the spokes. I didn't do much when I got back just the odd needed to do ride (because I dont have money for trains or buses), until this June, I have done over 1500 miles since then on the original tyres (though they need replacing ones worn, and the others got a scuff in the side wall) and I dont recall another puncture due to road conditions, the tyres a Kenda doesn't say which type otherwise I would order some new ones. The only puncture I recall this year was when I had a broken spoke the second ride I had this year, I stripped the tyre off took out the offending spoke, when I put the tube back it had split where the valve joins the tube, so again not really a puncture as such.Can I go against conventional wisdom?
You'll start getting more punctures, because those whisker-thin tyres are actually manufactured from regurgitated rice paper painted black and they pop at a passing glance. Every rough section of road has you anxiously looking betwixt your legs to spot unexpected deflations (of the tyre too).
I get the impression theres a lot of unquantifiable upgrades that are only worth it if you want extra seconds in a race, but for fitness riding etc dont give much benefit. I went from 45mm knobblies to 38mm slicker tyres and while they feel smoother on tarmac, I think the main noticable speed difference is like you say... is that at which the rear wheel skids out, locks up etc and is also very poor offroad. Similarly, people say front suspension is very heavy despite low end sus. forks only weighing about 2kg, saving just 1.5kg at the expense of comfort many leisure/towpath riders would IMHO appreciate. I took my old gaspipe special out last night (26*2.00 knobblies, rigid forks) and I was a little depressed that I think its actually faster than my giant hybrid, simply because it's a much more aerodynamic riding position (small frame, low handlebars).The only thing I found when I switched to slicks was a faster way for myself and my bike to part company at speed when cornering!
these bikes are so lightweight and flimsy that they can only really be used on tarmac like a good woman - silky smooth and freshly laid preferably. Forget about darting along the odd cycle trail. Many NCN routes involve muddy sections which effectively debar road bikes. .
But, nobody warns you about how the knife edge saddle nearly cuts you in two when you go over a pothole. The pain is excruciating so over time, you learn to stand on the pedals at the slightest bump. But that's the other thing - these bikes are so lightweight and flimsy that they can only really be used on tarmac like a good woman - silky smooth and freshly laid preferably. Forget about darting along the odd cycle trail. Many NCN routes involve muddy sections which effectively debar road bikes. [...]
You'll start getting more punctures, because those whisker-thin tyres are actually manufactured from regurgitated rice paper painted black and they pop at a passing glance. Every rough section of road has you anxiously looking betwixt your legs to spot unexpected deflations (of the tyre too).
Again original blocks (again needing replacing) Tektro R360 brakes, no real issues.Reading those comments has swayed me even further into getting a road bike just after xmas, but the brakes in the wet could be the decider.
Reading those comments has swayed me even further into getting a road bike just after xmas, but the brakes in the wet could be the decider.