Road Bike Electric Conversion Kit

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Downward

Guru
Location
West Midlands
Good evening.
Ive got a Yose power kit for the wife’s hybrid but it’s pretty industrial with a massive battery and heavy kit.

Does anything exist for a lightweight road bike around 8kg ?
It’s 9 years old and on rim brakes. 105 kit and internally routed cables so wondering if there’s a sleek kit.
Mileage wouldn’t be an issue as I don’t anticipate using electric assistance all the time
 

steveindenmark

Legendary Member
Have you looked at Swytch?
 

raleighnut

Legendary Member
Nah not really, electric conversions work best on a hybrid/MTB main problem is battery weight whether you go for a front wheel, rear wheel or a 'mid drive' (crank motor) you've still got to carry the weight of that battery pack around plus all the associated gubbins (speed sensors/brake lever 'cut outs' control unit etc.) there's no way yet to make one that looks 'sleek'
 
Many kits come without batteries and you can choose your own lower capacity battery pack. Many people use the scooter style battery packs on ebike projects. They are typically 180-270Wh capacity and have less sustained current output so only suitable for 250W/350W geared hub motors. This sort of thing.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002899628391.html

A 7Ah model from a reputable seller should contain 20x3500mAh cells. This one gives about 10A maximum continuous and probably and perhaps something like 15-20A peak current. A 250W controller should be 7A at 36V normal sustained output and maybe 11A peak so should be within the parameters of the battery. If you use the ebike in a lower power mode the current draw won't be as much.

7x36 is 252Wh. A quick look shows Halfords do a ebike with a 24V battery with 4.8Ah capacity so 115Wh, less than half that capacity called the Assist bike. Many quite expensive lightweight ebikes come with batteries around 250Wh.

This would be a suitable kit.

https://yosepower.com/collections/u...-26-28-front-motor-kit?variant=39532573753479

You would also need a suitable charger and solder on a XT60 connector in place of its existing connector.

You could mount it all in a bag like below on the handlebars (a bit like Swytch) so the whole ebike kit doesn't have cables being stretched as you steer but instead everything turns together. Personally I would want to use a bike with steel forks for safety but you can probably get away with aluminium and maybe even carbon fibre if a light rider. I'd use hard foam dividers (maybe re-used from packaging) to keep the parts separate in the bag. That bag is big enough to hold the controller, battery and probably even the charger.

Amazon product ASIN B07ZZMZD5VView: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07ZZMZD5V/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Price for everything less than £300 and considerably better range than the newer Swytch kits with very low capacity batteries. If you use it only with the throttle only when you need assistance the battery could last quite a long range maybe 60-80 miles. If you use it like a pedelec type ebike so the motor is always assisting to a lesser or greater extent perhaps 25 mile on lower power levels.

It's perfectly legal to have a full function throttle on a converted bike to ebike project.

https://www.pedelecs.co.uk/dft-pedal-cycles-converted-twist-go-exempt-type-approval/

Many people prefer the safety and control of throttles (its the main way of controlling ebike power around the world on most ebikes).

I prefer front hub motors myself but if you want a rear hub motor then you could re-jig the layout with a saddle bag holding the battery and controller and just have the throttle and display cables along the top tube to the handlebars.
 

gzoom

Über Member
eRoad bikes are slowly getting lighter, and manfactures have got the weight down to 12kg now. My mid-range Creo with large frame comes in just under 13kg with pedals, and a 320wh battery. With a lighter wheelset and cassette, carbon bars and 12kg is possible.

52581229462_6ee4e87ca4_c_d.jpg


The best bit about the manfacture bikes though is the Creo rides and feels like my analogue Trek Madone. With the recent good weather it's just an absolute joy to ride.

You do feel the weight of the motor still when pressing on, but its a located down by the cranks so not like riding my hybrid with weigh in the panniers.

A DIY conversion on a road bike cannot get any near what the OEMs can do.

52913983148_0141ce211c_k_d.jpg


52922313538_c80f9cd220_k_d.jpg
 

raleighnut

Legendary Member
Many kits come without batteries and you can choose your own lower capacity battery pack. Many people use the scooter style battery packs on ebike projects. They are typically 180-270Wh capacity and have less sustained current output so only suitable for 250W/350W geared hub motors. This sort of thing.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002899628391.html

A 7Ah model from a reputable seller should contain 20x3500mAh cells. This one gives about 10A maximum continuous and probably and perhaps something like 15-20A peak current. A 250W controller should be 7A at 36V normal sustained output and maybe 11A peak so should be within the parameters of the battery. If you use the ebike in a lower power mode the current draw won't be as much.

7x36 is 252Wh. A quick look shows Halfords do a ebike with a 24V battery with 4.8Ah capacity so 115Wh, less than half that capacity called the Assist bike. Many quite expensive lightweight ebikes come with batteries around 250Wh.

This would be a suitable kit.

https://yosepower.com/collections/u...-26-28-front-motor-kit?variant=39532573753479

You would also need a suitable charger and solder on a XT60 connector in place of its existing connector.

You could mount it all in a bag like below on the handlebars (a bit like Swytch) so the whole ebike kit doesn't have cables being stretched as you steer but instead everything turns together. Personally I would want to use a bike with steel forks for safety but you can probably get away with aluminium and maybe even carbon fibre if a light rider. I'd use hard foam dividers (maybe re-used from packaging) to keep the parts separate in the bag. That bag is big enough to hold the controller, battery and probably even the charger.

Amazon product ASIN B07ZZMZD5VView: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07ZZMZD5V/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Price for everything less than £300 and considerably better range than the newer Swytch kits with very low capacity batteries. If you use it only with the throttle only when you need assistance the battery could last quite a long range maybe 60-80 miles. If you use it like a pedelec type ebike so the motor is always assisting to a lesser or greater extent perhaps 25 mile on lower power levels.

It's perfectly legal to have a full function throttle on a converted bike to ebike project.

https://www.pedelecs.co.uk/dft-pedal-cycles-converted-twist-go-exempt-type-approval/

Many people prefer the safety and control of throttles (its the main way of controlling ebike power around the world on most ebikes).

I prefer front hub motors myself but if you want a rear hub motor then you could re-jig the layout with a saddle bag holding the battery and controller and just have the throttle and display cables along the top tube to the handlebars.

Similar set up to the 3 I've done, including my Trike...................See avatar for piccie
 

sleuthey

Legendary Member
I got a Yose kit last year and one of the reasons I sent it back was the 15ah battery being intrusive and not releasing easily.

I then got this slimmer cheaper 10ah battery that I'm happy with:

IMG_20230525_073905_215.jpg
 

sleuthey

Legendary Member
 

Robxxx7

Über Member
Location
Ireland
I saw this at the recent cycle show and it looked pretty good .. they had the motor etc on a Carrera road bike and it worked pretty good.
It replaces your rear wheel and the battery fits into the bottle cage .. might be worth a look.
https://boostbike.uk/
 
eRoad bikes are slowly getting lighter, and manfactures have got the weight down to 12kg now. My mid-range Creo with large frame comes in just under 13kg with pedals, and a 320wh battery. With a lighter wheelset and cassette, carbon bars and 12kg is possible.

View attachment 691287

The best bit about the manfacture bikes though is the Creo rides and feels like my analogue Trek Madone. With the recent good weather it's just an absolute joy to ride.

You do feel the weight of the motor still when pressing on, but its a located down by the cranks so not like riding my hybrid with weigh in the panniers.

A DIY conversion on a road bike cannot get any near what the OEMs can do.

View attachment 691288

View attachment 691289

It's all down to what you like. For me personally a DIY ebike is far superior to that even though its a tiny fraction of the price. DIY conversions can be done exactly as you want the bike to be. It can be more reliable, safer and far more environmentally friendly and doesn't add to our huge trading deficit in the same way leading to the huge interest payments we all have to pay so I think it is economically far more responsible too. That is a disposable product it will likely be uneconomic to repair after a few years and it's carbon fibre frame means it goes straight to landfill and cannot be recycled. Also the great thing about DIY ebikes is you can have a full function throttle which is not allowed on pre-built ebikes. So you have full control of power and can use it only when you want to which can mean a huge range. Also for front hub motor ebikes it is often quick and easy to return them to a standard bike if that is what you want and of course you can move kits to different bikes. I personally think the weight of the bike is far less of an issue when its an ebike as the motor compensates for extra weight and you can concentrate on things that improve the bike to make it more comfortable, thicker tyres, suspension seat post, anything you want really within reason. Lightweight road ebikes are a tiny niche of the marketplace even to a greater extent than lightweight standard road bikes because there is less need for them.

I watched a recent video on youtube on the channel wheelers at large and one of the group of riders had bought what looks like a £12k Porsche ebike and of course the only mechanical on that group ride was the Porsche. It snapped its chain and that was just casual gravel bike use. The bike in question had sophisticated suspension and you wonder how it would fare off-road with its carbon fibre frame and being used far more aggressively. I don't believe that Porsche is a good bike despite its price. Yes it is beautiful and looks the part but is it a good bike personally I don't think so. It didn't appear to be any faster in real use and in fact it meant the ride was much slower as they had to wait around while he sorted the chain. The high gearing was more limited so would be much slower on the road too but that is the case for all mountain bikes I guess.

At the end of the day different people have completely different ideas of what makes a good bike or ebike.
 

gzoom

Über Member
Yes it is beautiful and looks the part but is it a good bike personally I don't think so.

A £500 Nissan Micra will get from A to B as well as a £200K Ferrari 488, infact the Micra will be more economical, cheaper to fix, and you could actually park it some where without worrying someone will carjack you :smile:.

The OP specifically mentioned 'sleek'

Even dirty, the motor/battery/controller integration of my Creo simply looks 'sleek', no DIY kit for a road bike can get close. Its an absolutely beautiful bit of bike engineering, for me worth every single penny. I'm current saving up from some better wheels that can match the quality of the frameset.

52584199157_5d92aacd03_k_d.jpg


52581229607_e7903597fd_k_d.jpg


52782537932_15ee5ced30_k_d.jpg
 

dicko

Guru
Location
Derbyshire
I fitted the Cytronex C1 kit a few months ago and I can recommend it. I have posted my fitting story on this forum. It has changed my cycling life now no hill stands in my way.
 

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dicko

Guru
Location
Derbyshire
Nah not really, electric conversions work best on a hybrid/MTB main problem is battery weight whether you go for a front wheel, rear wheel or a 'mid drive' (crank motor) you've still got to carry the weight of that battery pack around plus all the associated gubbins (speed sensors/brake lever 'cut outs' control unit etc.) there's no way yet to make one that looks 'sleek'

The Cytronex C1 battery, 180 Wh Li-ion, weight is 1.5 kg and easily removable from your cycle. Fits in place of the water bottle so bike doesn’t look like it’s an electric bike.
 

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