Retro Cantilever Brake Adjustment

[nmfeb70]

Hi everyone, I recently acquired a mid 90's GT MTB with cantilever brakes which now needs a cable adjustment (I've pushed the blocks inwards to the limit). I've included a photo and would appreciate any advice about the purpose of the small round disc and the sheath which covers part of the cable as I obviously cannot tighten it with these two as they are? Do these have any bearing on the cable adjustment? Thanks.

 

[Spokesmann]

One of the canti arms has an adjustment screw which can be screwed in or out to micro adjust the whole set up so the arms are equally angled and hence the blocks adjusted to the rim equally too. Make sure the brake shoes are set to the same position in the clamps as well.

 

[nmfeb70]

One of the canti arms has an adjustment screw which can be screwed in or out to micro adjust the whole set up so the arms are equally angled and hence the blocks adjusted to the rim equally too. Make sure the brake shoes are set to the same position in the clamps as well.

Thanks, so does the cable need any adjustment whatsoever ala V brakes?

 

[FrankCrank]

The line on the disc should line up with the cable, so it looks pretty close I'd say.........

 

[SkipdiverJohn]

I would shorten the main front brake cable slightly and reset the shoes to give running clearance. Then I would fit a front reflector bracket through the hole drilled in the fork. Or fit those unbreakable MTB mudguards that use the same mounting hole. You don't want that straddle wire to ever be able to come into contact with the top of the tyre if you run on knobblys. Too much risk of coming off!

 

[mjr]

Nothing to add to the adjustment advice, but please fit at least a front reflector bracket (or mudguards) to deflect a snapped cable before it catches the tyre, locks the brakes on and sends you flying.

 

[nmfeb70]

I would shorten the main front brake cable slightly and reset the shoes to give running clearance. Then I would fit a front reflector bracket through the hole drilled in the fork. Or fit those unbreakable MTB mudguards that use the same mounting hole. You don't want that straddle wire to ever be able to come into contact with the top of the tyre if you run on knobblys. Too much risk of coming off!

Good advice there about the tyres catching the cable, hadn't thought of that! How would I shorten the main front cable? Does it unclip from the small round disc? Cantilever brakes are a first for me.

 

[raleighnut]

Good advice there about the tyres catching the cable, hadn't thought of that! How would I shorten the main front cable? Does it unclip from the small round disc? Cantilever brakes are a first for me.

That type of cable is an 'answer' to this problem,

I would shorten the main front brake cable slightly and reset the shoes to give running clearance. Then I would fit a front reflector bracket through the hole drilled in the fork. Or fit those unbreakable MTB mudguards that use the same mounting hole. You don't want that straddle wire to ever be able to come into contact with the top of the tyre if you run on knobblys. Too much risk of coming


It isn't a straddle wire, if one side breaks it's 2 wires that can't catch on the tyre. It was Shimano's answer to prevent that as the 2nd wire clips onto the main wire.

 

[raleighnut]

It's a 'Y' type cable link, they are available in different lengths to change the angles the canti 'arms' sit at,



but were designed to stop the danger of the saddle wire snagging on the tyre.

 

[nmfeb70]

Hi everyone, I recently acquired a mid 90's GT MTB with cantilever brakes which now needs a cable adjustment (I've pushed the blocks inwards to the limit). I've included a photo and would appreciate any advice about the purpose of the small round disc and the sheath which covers part of the cable as I obviously cannot tighten it with these two as they are? Do these have any bearing on the cable adjustment? Thanks. View attachment 493780

Thanks all, but I still haven't got the answer I was look

One of the canti arms has an adjustment screw which can be screwed in or out to micro adjust the whole set up so the arms are equally angled and hence the blocks adjusted to the rim equally too. Make sure the brake shoes are set to the same position in the clamps as well.

There is only a screw on the front cantilever arm and turning it clockwise/anti-clockwise makes no difference.

 

[nmfeb70]

It's a 'Y' type cable link, they are available in different lengths to change the angles the canti 'arms' sit at,

View attachment 493822

but were designed to stop the danger of the saddle wire snagging on the tyre.

Thanks, but all I want to know is how to adjust the Cantilever Brake in the photo?

 

[raleighnut]

Thanks, but all I want to know is how to adjust the Cantilever Brake in the photo?

The answer was given upthread,

One of the canti arms has an adjustment screw which can be screwed in or out to micro adjust the whole set up so the arms are equally angled and hence the blocks adjusted to the rim equally too. Make sure the brake shoes are set to the same position in the clamps as well.

 

[chriswoody]

Looks to me like your brake blocks are to far in on the arms. What your looking for is the inside vertical face of the arms to be parallel to each other your arms are noticeably leaning back from each other. When setting my canti's up, I sometimes go right back to the start and systematically set every bit up in order. Just found this video that looks like it will be far better at explaining than me trying to write it all out.

 

[nmfeb70]

Looks to me like your brake blocks are to far in on the arms. What your looking for is the inside vertical face of the arms to be parallel to each other your arms are noticeably leaning back from each other. When setting my canti's up, I sometimes go right back to the start and systematically set every bit up in order. Just found this video that looks like it will be far better at explaining than me trying to write it all out.

Thanks Chris, looks like I've finally got the answer I was looking for.

 

[SkipdiverJohn]

How would I shorten the main front cable?

Depends where the outer cable is attached at the non-lever end. Your picture doesn't show enough of the brake system. Essentially, you need to either lengthen the outer cable using the barrel adjuster to pull up slack on the inner, or you need to raise the handlebars slightly, if the lower end of the outer cable is secured to the stem rather than the headset.