Replacing tyre after puncture repair

[pes]

I always have great difficulty getting the last bit of the tyre over the rim.

Is this normal and can anyone recommend a method or tool to help with this?

Thank you.

 

[gbb]

Could be the tyre make Pes...some are notoriously tight...my contis are freekin tight on Shimano wheels, but not on Rigida rims...

 

[Gerry Attrick]

Make sure the tyre walls are well into the centre of the rim all around the rest of the tyre and use lubrication such as talcum powder.

 

[Tynan]

I alway try with hands but usually end up using a tyre lever for the last bit, slightly infalting the tyre before this stops me pinching the tube, so far anyway

 

[jimboalee]

This always gives trouble to untrained people.
Tyres do go on rims, even rims that are not pulled slightly smaller by high spoke tension.
Get the tyre to sit as far down in the rim as possible - lower than the seating clincher.
Ease the tyre onto the rim with the pad that is the thumb muscle, straight armed and using the Pectoral muscles, not the forearm.

 

[longers]

I'm going to try your straight arm technique next time Jimboalee, I've always done it "the wrong way" in the past with varying degrees of success.

I hope it's a while before I get chance to experiment.

 

[Smokin Joe]

This always gives trouble to untrained people.
Tyres do go on rims, even rims that are not pulled slightly smaller by high spoke tension.
.

How are rims pulled smaller by high spoke tensions? They would deform if that was the case.

 

[swee'pea99]

I have to say I used to think it was simply impossible to get tyres back on without levers. Then I changed tyres, and discovered it's simply impossible to get some tyres back on without levers. Tyres vary. Some are easier than others. With some, in my experience, you just do need levers and there's no getting away from it. Can't see that that's any kind of a problem - just do like Tynan says and inflate slightly to prevent the tube getting pinched. FWIW, I also at this point (ie, tyre back on rim, tube slightly inflated) kind of 'knead' the tyre all the way round, to try to make sure it's evenly distributed round the rim. Can't honestly say whether this makes any difference, but it feels right, and makes me feel better!

 

[jimboalee]

Smokin Joe.

Perform an experiment. Put your wheel in a truing jig and loosen six adjacent spokes ( three from each side ) until they jangle in the hub. Spin the wheel and see the bulge you just introduced.

Now send the wheel to me for re-truing. £5 please, Chi-ching.

 

[jimboalee]

I'll correct that.
"Spin the wheel and look at the 'egg shaped' wheel you've just laid"

 

[Smokin Joe]

Smokin Joe.

Perform an experiment. Put your wheel in a truing jig and loosen six adjacent spokes ( three from each side ) until they jangle in the hub. Spin the wheel and see the bulge you just introduced.

Now send the wheel to me for re-truing. £5 please, Chi-ching.

You've deformed it, not reduced the diameter. The side still under tension will have pulled in. The only way to reduce the diameter is to compress the rim round it's radius.

 

[jimboalee]

I'm trying to demonstrate that with close to equal tension on all the spokes, the rim is pulled smaller. Only by fractions of a mm mind, but when a cyclist is at the end of his tether on the roadside just on the edge of his strength, that fraction of a mm may be the difference between success and throwing the wheel to the onlooking cattle.

As a matter of fact, a properly inflated Sewn-up tubular will shrink and loosen the spoke tension.

 

[4F]

I'm trying to demonstrate that with close to equal tension on all the spokes, the rim is pulled smaller. Only by fractions of a mm mind, but when a cyclist is at the end of his tether on the roadside just on the edge of his strength, that fraction of a mm may be the difference between success and throwing the wheel to the onlooking cattle. .

Or rather than fannying around playing with your spoke tension you could just use a tyre lever