Replacing internal gear and brake cables

[Shooter999]

Hi everyone

Just had the bike back from the LBS and was told that I should think about replacing the internal brake and gear cables. He wants to charge £40 plus labour.

Is this something I could do myself, bearing in mind I am absolutely shocking when it comes to anything mechanical.

I don't mind paying for it, but i would also like to be able to maintain my bike myself. Apparently changing internal cables is a right PIA.

Are there any step by step guides on how to change the cables and also factor in the internal cabling complications?

 

[lpretro1]

Internal cabling can be a mare - on some bikes u have to remove the bottom bracket for which you will need some specific tools. The price you have been given for cables is not expensive if he is using the ptfe coated Shimano cables. Bike with internal cabling are all different so there is no guide which will cover all. Whatever you do do NOT pull out any cables until you know what you are doing

 

[Flying Dodo]

There's loads of Youtube videos, so just search for your type of bike. Some may involve use of vacuum cleaners...

 

[Ajax Bay]

What's the bike?

 

[Shooter999]

It's a Mekk poggio 3.0 (2013 model). I can't find any instructions online on how to replace the cables

 

[raleighnut]

What I'd do is remove the outer cable (leaving the inner cable in place) and use the inner cable as a guide for the outer (thread the new outer over the inner cable). Once the new outer has been fed through and is in the correct position you can then fit new inners, simples.

 

[rusty bearing]

What I'd do is remove the outer cable (leaving the inner cable in place) and use the inner cable as a guide for the outer (thread the new outer over the inner cable). Once the new outer has been fed through and is in the correct position you can then fit new inners, simples.

The problem with that approach arises when you don't have full length outers. Many stop on entry to the frame and only start again at the inner cables exit point. In that case usually you have to remove the stops at the entry and exits while feeding a small but stiff bit of plastic tube along the inner until it emerges at the front of the bike, then remove the old cable and feed the new back again.
That is just a simplified version not describing all the steps but you get the idea......

 

[Globalti]

It's not difficult at all to re-cable a bike with internal cables and if you keep your wits about you it should go OK. However to plan any work on cables if you don't own a cable cutter is folly. Spend £40 on some Park cable cutters and a couple of metres each of gear and brake cable outer and some new inners, take your time (crap weather forecast this weekend) be methodical and next time you won't need to depend on your LBS to do the job.

Last time I did this (last weekend) I threaded the inner through the downtube and it emerged straight out of the gap in the BB. I then threaded it through the RH chainstay and it popped straight out of the small hole at the derailleur. That was a surprise, but when I realised I'd done something wrong and needed to do it again, TWICE and it popped out in the right place TWICE I couldn't believe my luck! That was six successful re-threads of the cable!

 

[User33236]

Three or four of our bikes are internally routed with one, my wife's Lapierre, being particularly awkward.

I bought the Park Tools IR-1 kit which makes it a breeze.

 

[raleighnut]

It's not difficult at all to re-cable a bike with internal cables and if you keep your wits about you it should go OK. However to plan any work on cables if you don't own a cable cutter is folly. Spend £40 on some Park cable cutters and a couple of metres each of gear and brake cable outer and some new inners, take your time (crap weather forecast this weekend) be methodical and next time you won't need to depend on your LBS to do the job.

Last time I did this (last weekend) I threaded the inner through the downtube and it emerged straight out of the gap in the BB. I then threaded it through the RH chainstay and it popped straight out of the small hole at the derailleur. That was a surprise, but when I realised I'd done something wrong and needed to do it again, TWICE and it popped out in the right place TWICE I couldn't believe my luck! That was six successful re-threads of the cable!

Internal guide tube?

My 653 frame has one along the top tube for the internal brake cable.

 

[Globalti]

Yes I believe some steel frames had a full-length tube fitted inside the top tube but that's not the case with carbon or alloy frames. If it's really a problem the OP can probably beg some plastic tube from the LBS or even go out and buy some 3.5 mm CUNIFER brake pipe. My recent success was, I think, due to using good quality Shimano inner cables, which are more flexible than LBS bulk-bought cables and in my case they flopped easily down into the bottom of the tube and emerged from the service port at the BB.

 

[Shooter999]

I'm going to give it a go!! I'm going to try and do the brake cables first and see how that goes.

I've ordered some 3mm tubing from eBay and also a pair of cable cutters from CRC.

 

[cyberknight]

It's not difficult at all to re-cable a bike with internal cables and if you keep your wits about you it should go OK. However to plan any work on cables if you don't own a cable cutter is folly. Spend £40 on some Park cable cutters and a couple of metres each of gear and brake cable outer and some new inners, take your time (crap weather forecast this weekend) be methodical and next time you won't need to depend on your LBS to do the job.

Last time I did this (last weekend) I threaded the inner through the downtube and it emerged straight out of the gap in the BB. I then threaded it through the RH chainstay and it popped straight out of the small hole at the derailleur. That was a surprise, but when I realised I'd done something wrong and needed to do it again, TWICE and it popped out in the right place TWICE I couldn't believe my luck! That was six successful re-threads of the cable!

Last time i tried to recable my front brake on my claris shifters i ended up taking it too the LBS as i couldnt find the flipping hole and kept knackering the end of the cable, teach me to do it without my reading glasses as my eyesight is a bit tosh closer than about a foot .

 

[Globalti]

I'm going to give it a go!! I'm going to try and do the brake cables first and see how that goes.

I've ordered some 3mm tubing from eBay and also a pair of cable cutters from CRC.

Good plan Stan; brakes are easier. If your rear brake passes through the top tube, entering and exiting through ports with little covers, you'll be able to fit the front cover to the cable then feed the inner along until you see it through the rear port then fish it out with tweezers or an old spoke end. Replace the outers taking care to get that short rear bit the right length for a nice curve. Pull it through the brake clamp but don't cut it until you're sure you've finished. If you have an angle grinder or a grinding wheel it's a good idea to grind flat the ends of the cable outers so as to take out any springiness from where you cut through the wire coil. If your bike has a curved top tube, before you feed that inner though, slip a couple of those tiny rubber doughnts or small rubber bands wound tightly onto the cable at 1/3 and 2/3 along to prevent it from rattling against the inside of the tube.

 

[Shooter999]

Good plan Stan; brakes are easier. If your rear brake passes through the top tube, entering and exiting through ports with little covers, you'll be able to fit the front cover to the cable then feed the inner along until you see it through the rear port then fish it out with tweezers or an old spoke end. Replace the outers taking care to get that short rear bit the right length for a nice curve. Pull it through the brake clamp but don't cut it until you're sure you've finished. If you have an angle grinder or a grinding wheel it's a good idea to grind flat the ends of the cable outers so as to take out any springiness from where you cut through the wire coil. If your bike has a curved top tube, before you feed that inner though, slip a couple of those tiny rubber doughnts or small rubber bands wound tightly onto the cable at 1/3 and 2/3 along to prevent it from rattling against the inside of the tube.

Thanks for the advice and tips, it's really appreciated.