Replacement shoes for 1938 Sturmey archer hub brake

[eggnbeanz]

Hello everyone- new here and looking for some help with a 1938 Raleigh sport tourist with hub brakes.

the brake shoes have been contaminated with oil and need replacing.

Does anyone know if the modern equivalent Sturmey Archer 90mm shoes will fit in a 1938 BF hub?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/18701691...9D4hHC8SzS&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

If not I can get them re-lined, but interested to know if anyone else has managed to source a replacement.

 

[Drago]

You'll be able to get the originals re-lined it you can't find a fresh set.

 

[Chris S]

Does anyone know if the modern equivalent Sturmey Archer 90mm shoes will fit in a 1938 BF hub?

I doubt it, somebody brought up a similar issue in the Sturmey Archer Facebook group with a 1937 K series hub.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/53591183941/

The K series drum brakes on my 1937 Armstrong X-Frame are abysmal, and very unsafe. I've tried everything I can think of and everything in the Sturmey documents to improve braking with virtually no improvement.

Since the shoe designs have changed, and since I want to retain the original backing plates, I chose to attempt relining the shoes myself.
So far I have done only the front brake, KB7. I'll see what the results are before deciding to do the rear shoes.

My original plan was to rivet the new material, but it is so thin i chose to glue the lining instead. I sourced the lining material and epoxy from a supplier on eBay who supplies bulk material primarily for antique cars. He supplied instructions on how to properly use the special epoxy.
To my surprise the rivets appear to be aluminum rather than brass. Regardless I drilled them out and their remnants are visible in one of the photos.

Next step was to thoroughly clean and smooth the shoe faces. Following that I epoxied the new material onto the shoes. Hopefully the photos in the google drive link tell the story of the process I followed.

Finally I need to bed the linings which is time consuming using the Sturmey recommended chalk method, so when weather and time allows i'm planning to let them bed in over time with use.

Another obvious difference that I can think of is that the 1938 hub would have been manufactured using Imperial dimensions and you want to fit shoes manufactured using metric ones.

 

[eggnbeanz]

I doubt it, somebody brought up a similar issue in the Sturmey Archer Facebook group with a 1937 K series hub.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/53591183941/

The K series drum brakes on my 1937 Armstrong X-Frame are abysmal, and very unsafe. I've tried everything I can think of and everything in the Sturmey documents to improve braking with virtually no improvement.

Since the shoe designs have changed, and since I want to retain the original backing plates, I chose to attempt relining the shoes myself.
So far I have done only the front brake, KB7. I'll see what the results are before deciding to do the rear shoes.

My original plan was to rivet the new material, but it is so thin i chose to glue the lining instead. I sourced the lining material and epoxy from a supplier on eBay who supplies bulk material primarily for antique cars. He supplied instructions on how to properly use the special epoxy.
To my surprise the rivets appear to be aluminum rather than brass. Regardless I drilled them out and their remnants are visible in one of the photos.

Next step was to thoroughly clean and smooth the shoe faces. Following that I epoxied the new material onto the shoes. Hopefully the photos in the google drive link tell the story of the process I followed.

Finally I need to bed the linings which is time consuming using the Sturmey recommended chalk method, so when weather and time allows i'm planning to let them bed in over time with use.

Another obvious difference that I can think of is that the 1938 hub would have been manufactured using Imperial dimensions and you want to fit shoes manufactured using metric ones.

Thank you this is really useful! Appreciate you digging this out for me

 

[classic33]

I'd go for getting them relined myself. The parts for older hubs, despite the numbers manufactured, are nigh on impossible to get.

And as mentioned above, two different systems in use. You want to fit a metric sized part into, and do the job of something that was designed and built using imperial sizing.

The parts list for that particular hub