Replacement freehub - which one?
- Thread starter Maz
- Start date
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amaferanga
Veteran
- Location
- Bolton
You need to know the model of hub and then source a freehub for that specific hub. It likely won't be easy and may end up costing as much as a new hub (e.g. freehub for my Planet X Model B's costs about £40). That's one of the problems with factory wheels - it's usually not economical to try to repair or replace bits.
What makes you think the freehub needs replacing? If it's bearings that're shot then it'd be much cheaper to just replace them (if you remove them you can find out which ones you need and source them from a bearing supplier for a few quid).
What makes you think the freehub needs replacing? If it's bearings that're shot then it'd be much cheaper to just replace them (if you remove them you can find out which ones you need and source them from a bearing supplier for a few quid).
accountantpete
OAP
You need to watch it as Shimano frequently change designs.
Get the model and then look it up in Shimano Tech Docs. That will give you the component ref for the correct freehub.
It will be £15-20 like this
http://www.google.co.uk/products/catalog?q=tiagra freehub&hl=en&prmd=imvns&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_qf.&bpcl=38093640&biw=1280&bih=909&um=1&ie=UTF-8&cid=711961497559534146&sa=X&ei=nZKiUJL0Lei30QXblIBA&ved=0CGoQ8wIwBQ
Get the model and then look it up in Shimano Tech Docs. That will give you the component ref for the correct freehub.
It will be £15-20 like this
http://www.google.co.uk/products/catalog?q=tiagra freehub&hl=en&prmd=imvns&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_qf.&bpcl=38093640&biw=1280&bih=909&um=1&ie=UTF-8&cid=711961497559534146&sa=X&ei=nZKiUJL0Lei30QXblIBA&ved=0CGoQ8wIwBQ
I like Skol
A Minging Manc...
- Location
- Sunny Ashton-under-Lyne
I recently replaced the freehub on my Tiagra hub. it was £2-3 cheaper to buy a complete new hub than to buy the seperate freehub. Cost inc shipping was either just under or possibly a fraction over £20 inc shipping (I can't remember now but confident it was less than £20). I now have a spare hub body and more importantly a spare axle, cones and wheel bearings for free.
fossyant
Ride It Like You Stole It!
- Location
- South Manchester
Done the same myself with Deore, hub was cheaper than the free hub alone.
Might be tricky with factory wheels though.
Might be tricky with factory wheels though.
fossyant
Ride It Like You Stole It!
- Location
- South Manchester
What's wrong with the free hub ? Some you can rescue
OP
OP
Maz
Guru
Sounds really rough if you spin it (lift the back wheel off the ground and spin by hand). Also, there are times when I get no drive at all when pedalling, especially just after having freewheeled/coasting. Also, get an occasional worrying 'crack' type noise when applying hard pressure on the pedals.
OP
OP
Maz
Guru
Excuse my ignorance - aren't most wheels 'factory wheels'?
If I got a new hub (instead of just the freehub), that would mean a complete wheel rebuild, right? i.e. removing and refitting all the spokes - the thought of doing that job would fill me with dread.
fossyant
Ride It Like You Stole It!
- Location
- South Manchester
I would have a go at servicing the hub and freehub, then you will know what you are dealing with. Gritty hubs are often terminal. Shimano use cup and cone mainly, which is easy to service, and easy to get new bearings, BUT, should the cones and races be badly pitted, you are looking at new hubs. You will need a 10mm (or 12mm) allen key to remove the freehub from the hub. I'd recommend soaking it with WD40 to get any crud out (you can usually get one of the rubber seals out on the 'hub side'), then run oil into it, and let it dry. On shimano freehubs, the drive side bearing race is part of the freehub, so check for pitting. Once dried out, check it again, and then regrease the race, and re-assemble.
Factory wheels are generally built as a unit, so hub, spokes and rims are specific to that wheel set. Mavic being a prime example - Eg Aksiums and Ksyriums - it's a complete package - getting spokes is a pain I believe.
The issue you have is the R500 wheels use a generic shimano hub, so it may be a call to your lbs, or even Madison to find out what the compatible part is - SJS cycles are probably a good place to start - they are excellent. What you will find tricky is getting a complete R500 hub so if you find a compatible hub/freewheel it's usually cheaper to strip the freewheel off the hub, and put on the wheel. I found Deore complete hubs were cheaper than just the freewheel. Shimano won't just sell R500 hubs, as it's a package. It is the same issue with all factory wheels though, you can get bearings, and freehubs but not a complete identical hub.
It's one reason to go for handbuilt wheels on your commuter or heavy use bike - easier to get replacement parts.
Factory wheels are generally built as a unit, so hub, spokes and rims are specific to that wheel set. Mavic being a prime example - Eg Aksiums and Ksyriums - it's a complete package - getting spokes is a pain I believe.
The issue you have is the R500 wheels use a generic shimano hub, so it may be a call to your lbs, or even Madison to find out what the compatible part is - SJS cycles are probably a good place to start - they are excellent. What you will find tricky is getting a complete R500 hub so if you find a compatible hub/freewheel it's usually cheaper to strip the freewheel off the hub, and put on the wheel. I found Deore complete hubs were cheaper than just the freewheel. Shimano won't just sell R500 hubs, as it's a package. It is the same issue with all factory wheels though, you can get bearings, and freehubs but not a complete identical hub.
It's one reason to go for handbuilt wheels on your commuter or heavy use bike - easier to get replacement parts.
OP
OP
Maz
Guru
Basic question...What's a freewheel?
fossyant
Ride It Like You Stole It!
- Location
- South Manchester
Sorry meant free hub. Freewheel are the older sprockets and mechanism in one.
