Repairing steerer on Raleigh International

Page may contain affiliate links. Please see terms for details.
Just got back from my first serious ride (28mi, 1200') on my nostalgia project, a late 70's Raleigh International (from my local bicycle donation/recycle at a price for which I may burn in hell). Aside from needing gears lower than 43x23x38x700cx170mm, I also need to repair the steerer tube so I can drop the stem for my preferred position. I haven't yet pulled the fork but I have dropped a hole gauge to verify that the steerer has a dent or some deformation about 120mm down. A quick attempt to enlarge it by tapping a socket through the steerer was not effective. I did get the socket back out but there was an "Oh puck!" moment.

Anybody do this before? I know there are tubing expanders to be used on exhaust systems, but those are much larger diameter and intended for thinner and milder gauge steels. I'm thinking of pulling the socket through with a threaded rod.
 

Attachments

  • DAKE0039.JPG
    DAKE0039.JPG
    178.6 KB · Views: 11
  • EJZX7375.JPG
    EJZX7375.JPG
    201.2 KB · Views: 9
  • CWKD1828.JPG
    CWKD1828.JPG
    133.6 KB · Views: 9
  • PLEB2428.JPG
    PLEB2428.JPG
    90.4 KB · Views: 9

Chris S

Legendary Member
Location
Birmingham
Doesn't the stem go into the fork? Is it open at both ends?
(I'm used to unicrown forks)
 
Doesn't the stem go into the fork? Is it open at both ends?
(I'm used to unicrown forks)
What's a unicrown? (The generational gulf shows.) Yes, the quill stem goes into the steerer but it is a discrete fork consisting of fork blades, a cast crown and steerer. The steerer goes all the way through the crown. (if you're riding along, you can pull the stem out and look down to inspect your tire, if you so choose.) With the brake removed it's a clear shot between the top nut of the headset and the bottom of the fork.
 
Alternative view - cut an inch or two off the bottom of the handlebar stem ?
That's a thought, but definitely more complicated since the bottom of the stem quill has tapered walls to fit the expander bolt. Cutting 20-30 mm off the stem will require that the taper be reformed to fit the expander. Then there's also the issue of the length of the expander bolt that will have to be reduced.
 

rogerzilla

Legendary Member
If it's a smallish frame (looks like only about 20"), the stem may just be hitting the butted section of the steerer. The solution there is either a stem with a shorter quill (they vary) or a stem with drop built in. These exist for track racing.

Do not push a stem right down to the butt and tighten the wedge while continuing to push it down. It will be very hard to remove as the wedge needs a bit of space (1/4") to drop down so you can remove the stem later.
 
Last edited:

goldcoastjon

Senior Member
The "deformation" you found is the butted bottom of the steer tube. Your stem should NOT be tightened with the bottom of the quill the far down, as it will not tighten properly, work its way up into the wider part pf the steerer, and your bars and stem can come out of the head tube....

I DO ride short frames (51-52 cm ST, CTT) and CANNOT drop a quill stem very far down the steer tube on any of them.

You could change your stem to one without an internal wedge at the bottom, which would make shortening it somewhat easier. (I have had to shorten several Nitto Technomic stems from their stock 225mm quill height to 180-190mm because of the same issue: I need a taller stem but do not have the steerer length to use one with a 225mm quill height.)
 
I will have to check this carefully! I have had a number of steel frames, including another Raleigh, 21", and haven't ever had a problem with getting the stem all the way down. However, this might be my first experience with a GB stem; most of my stems have been TTT or Cinelli.

Are the Technomics wedge or expander? Was it reasonably easy to find a shorter bolt or did you cut more threads?
 
Top Bottom