Removing tricky pedals?

[nappadang]

I've just borrowed a road bike (step into the unknown) which has SPD SL pedals on. Rather than buy new shoes etc I was planning to stick on a pair of SPDs just until I got the hang of things.
I'm reasonably ok with simple bike maintenance including changing pedals (opposite threads etc) but these beggars just will not budge. I've given them a good dowsing of releasing oil but to no avail, any hints, tips or suggestions would be really appreciated. Failing that, how much would be a fair price to pay a LBS to do it for me?

Thanks in advance,

Mick

 

[RebornBumbler]

Get a proper chunky long pedal spanner - you might be fine with a decent standard open-ended spanner, but forget using a bit of shaped steel plate some people describe as a tool.
Then it's just a matter of remembering which way to untighten - normal (anticlockwise) on the chainwheel (drive) side, clockwise on the other.
If you get the right tool, you can give it a tap with a hammer - but it's not usually required - spraying in a bit of WD40 or similar might help if it's seized.

 

[sittingbull]

Apply GT85/WD40 etc to the pedal axle from the inside and outside of each crank to give it the best chance of penetrating. I assume you're using a proper pedal wrench which will give you more leverage than a spanner. Leave them for tonight and try again tomorrow.

Sometimes seized threads respond better to a "shock" by striking the wrench with a hammer rather than "wrestling" them but be careful to support the bottom bracket (maybe use a car axle stand) and be careful with the drivetrain. I wouldn't attempt this if it's a carbon frame.

No idea what an LBS will charge but it may depend how long it takes them. When they come off apply copper grease before replacing.

Edit some points cross posted with RebornBumbler

 

[smokeysmoo]

^ this, and remember that both pedals undo towards the rear of the bike.

You might need to slide a piece of tubing over the pedal spanner for increased leverage, or you can try shocking them free with a 'persuader', I'd use my rubber mallet first before my hammer TBH.

[EDIT] x posted with everybody

 

[Smokin Joe]

Pour hot water on the crank (assuming it's alloy and not CF) and it should expand enough to break the seal then allow brute force to take over.

 

[fatblokish]

Wear a glove on yer business hand, if/when the spanner slips you'll see why.

 

[iRaceGrannies]

I bought a second hand road bike last year on ebay, it had SPD's fitted that I couldnt get off while they were on the bike. I had to take the crank/pedal arm off and brace the spanner on the floor and use the pedal arm as a lever for my body weight to push down on. (the effort it took even that way told me there was no way I'd have got them off while attached to the bike)

I reckon the BIG guy I got it off had used his monstrous strength to "loosen" them the wrong way.

 

[slowmotion]

Pour hot water on the crank (assuming it's alloy and not CF) and it should expand enough to break the seal then allow brute force to take over.

A hair dryer is also good. Then a combination spanner (15mm?) with a length of pipe slipped over the "non-business" end to give you a hefty lever arm as smokeysmoo suggested.

 

[Keith Oates]

Put the none drive side pedal horizontal and the crank arm and pedal facing aft. Place it on a wooden block or the curb of a pavement and then get somebody to keep their weight on the saddle. Then use a proper 15mm spanner (not one of the thin steel ones) and give that a sharp blow with a hammer. I found that this method has never failed for me. Also the comments above about the WD40 etc. should be tried out first.!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[screenman]

Trouble is with heat on alloy is that it has very little effect, which is why it is used as a heat sink on the machine you are using at this moment. Heating will expand the pedal spindle faster than it will the alloy.

 

[Brommyboy]

A much easier way is simply to put the spanner on the pedal horizontally facing aft: with your heel on the spanner and toe on the pedal, transfer your weight to the spanner. The toe holds the pedal steady while the heel turns the axil to unscrew it. This works for both left and right hand threads that are used.

 

[Smokin Joe]

Trouble is with heat on alloy is that it has very little effect, which is why it is used as a heat sink on the machine you are using at this moment. Heating will expand the pedal spindle faster than it will the alloy.

Other way round, surely?

Doesn't aluminium react to temperature quicker than steel, hence the packet of frozen peas method on a stuck seatpost.?

 

[Pale Rider]

GT85 is useless in this application and standard WD40 is not a brilliant penetrating oil.

It is not designed to be, which is why WD40 make a 'Specialist Penetrant'.

http://www.screwfix.com/p/wd-40-specialist-penetrant-400ml/86063

Other makes available.

If you think it's worth buying a tin of the proper stuff, it will work better over time - apply, leave overnight, apply again and leave again.