Removing the spacers on the stem?

[PLuKE]

I have a Merida 93 Carbon, classed as a Sportive/Endurance. I have experimented with seat adjustment and the stem.

This has an FSA stem, I have removed 3 of the spacers and put them on the top like I have read that this is the correct way?

I now just have one spacer at the bottom, I find this pretty comfortable and gets me lower down without using the drops (I am new to all this cycling lark)

This won't affect the handling of the bike in a negative way? As I guess now I have more weight on the front of the bike, this could make it twitchy and turn in quicker? Coming from a motorbike background this is what happens in this case.

Thanks
Luke

 

[ColinJ]

I have never noticed any change in handling by raising or lowering my bars.

You have already done it so you should really ask yourself the question! (I think it will be the same answer - that you don't notice any change in handling.)

As for whether it is the correct way to go about it ... It is sensible to put the spare spacers on top until you are 100% sure that you are happy with the change. If you are sure that you will never want to raise the bars again, or sell it in the future to someone who wants the bars higher, then you could shorten the fork steerer so those spacers were no longer needed, but that would only be for cosmetic reasons. (If you want the steerer shorter, then be very careful not to shorten it too much!)

 

[ColinJ]

Thinking about it - I wouldn't shorten the steerer yet. You might find that when you start doing longer, harder rides that you do not want to get so low. You can always get down on the drops to get lower. Only permanently lower the bars if the drops are not low enough.

 

[sittingbull]

With a motorbike the frame is lowered relative to the forks (or looking at it the other way around, the forks are raised in the yolk) and the steering is "sharpened". Your cycle frame and forks remain in their same (unaltered) relative position.

 

[Smokin Joe]

I'd chop the steerer down so you still have one spacer on top of the stem. You are unlikely to need to raise it by more than that in the future if it feels comfortable as it is. As for handling, most pro bikes have no spacers at all, the stem is slammed against the headset. I'm never happy with too much steerer sticking up above the stem and just waiting to do you a serious mischief should you take a purler.

 

[Profpointy]

....mmm .... remind me why these new improved steerers where you have to cut bits off, and can't move 'em back up are better than the old fashioned ones where you undid an allen screw and moved it up and down to wherever you wanted

 

[Smokin Joe]

....mmm .... remind me why these new improved steerers where you have to cut bits off, and can't move 'em back up are better than the old fashioned ones where you undid an allen screw and moved it up and down to wherever you wanted

And where you needed a spanner the size of a grand piano to adjust it and a hammer to fit and remove it, which you had to do regularly because pitting of the crown race gave you indexed steering. It's easy enough to sort a position that suits you and a cm or two left on top for future adjustments will be enough. My last two A-Headset type systems were on the bikes for 7 years each with not a single adjustment needed and were still smooth as silk when I sold the bikes. And remember steering tubes still had to be cut to suit the headset stack on the old systems too.

Quill stems and the associated gubbins they brought with them belong in museums next to chainsets with cotter pins.

 

[Globalti]

They were a nightmare to adjust.

 

[Profpointy]

They were a nightmare to adjust.

Two spanners just like any other bearing adjustment - not had difficulty
Maybe it's just what I grew up with, but tightening up the new ones I find trickier if anything.

Don't buy the replacement issue either - the old ones came apart quite simply, but (perhaps wrongly) I'm told the new ones need special bushes or tools to knock out (though I've not done it).

One great advantage of the new ones, though not inherent in the design, is that you can drop the bars out of the stem easily. The old slit it and nip it design where bars had to be threaded out was indeed a pain.

 

[PLuKE]

Thanks guys. I can be rest assured now.

Now, because I bought a Sportive bike, because it was more comfortable than a race bike. Have I now by removing the spacers got a more racey sportive?



Luke

 

[Venod]

Thanks guys. I can be rest assured now.

Now, because I bought a Sportive bike, because it was more comfortable than a race bike. Have I now by removing the spacers got a more racey sportive?



Luke

No. you have a sportive bike with lower handlebars.

 

[PLuKE]

Don't rain on my party! I still feel when ride like Quintana.


Luke

 

[Smokin Joe]

Thanks guys. I can be rest assured now.

Now, because I bought a Sportive bike, because it was more comfortable than a race bike. Have I now by removing the spacers got a more racey sportive?



Luke

The difference between a race bike and a sportive bike exists purely in the minds of the marketing men.