Removing Cotter Pins - How?

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My riding buddy has bought a junior road bike for his Son. It's an 80's Peugeot and while it's in pretty good condition he's stripping it for peace of mind to make sure everything is tickety boo before his lad rides it.
We've both removed countless cranks over the years, but never a cottered one. The cotter pin does not want to budge, so my question is, how the hell do these feckers come out?
Is it just a case of heat/lube/persuasion? or is there another way?
Any help appreciated.
Thanks
Jon
 

compo

Veteran
Location
Harlow
Undo the nut two or three threads, support the bottom bracket on a lump of wood underneath then give the cotter pin a good wack with a hammer. The wooden support is to prevent the frame "bouncing" and losing a lot of energy from the hammer. They can be bu**ers to remove though but will always succomb to a hammer eventually.
 
OP
OP
smokeysmoo

smokeysmoo

Legendary Member
Thanks guys, always reluctant to hit things too hard, (learnt the hard way in the past:whistle:). He's left the bolt on to protect the end threads, but I think he'd be better replacing them anyhow.
I'll pass on your messages as I'm off out for a ride, and I'll let you know how he gets on :thumbsup:
 

PpPete

Legendary Member
Location
Chandler's Ford
The old advice was to leave the nut on (so as to protect the thread) and tap with a hammer, trouble is these things are so old now that most have been in-situ for so long that that technique don't work.
Accept that you will have to buy new ones (or a new cotterless chainset), and beat the crap out of the old ones with a lump hammer - they move eventually.
 

compo

Veteran
Location
Harlow
It's a long time since I did one of them but I'd say, yes, walloping is the answer.

Oh, yeah, and take the nut off first. :smile:

NO, leave the nut on but loosened off a few threads. If you keep hitting unprotected threads the threaded end will either bend over or balloon out slightly, both conditions making removal more difficult. Once the pin has cracked free then remove the nut.
 

Paul J

Guest
Sometimes warming them with a plumbers blowtorch helps to loosen them.
 

compo

Veteran
Location
Harlow
I used to have a tool that was similar to a ball joint separator. It had a slot for the cotter pin. Mounted onto the crank you tightened it down onto the threaded end of the pin with a spanner or socket and when tight a few raps with the hammer would invariable free the pin. I haven't seen such a tool for many years.
 

Night Train

Maker of Things
I agree with the loosen it a couple of turns and then hit it route.

Keep the nut fully threaded though so that there is the maximum number of threads engaged and then place a lump of hard wood or soft metal over the nut before hitting it. The crank needs to be supported from below and I I would use another lump of wood or a car jack with a bit of wood on the top to protect the crank.
Without the support I have known the crank and/or the BB spindle to bend and in one case the BB shell distort.

If it doesn't shift with a couple of determined whacks then stop. More generally results in the pin bending or the nut being driven down the threads. A bit of heat can then help loosen it.
I would bank on replacing the pins regardless of how easy or difficult they were to remove, assuming the cranks and BB spindle are ok.
 
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