Removing and identifying headset

[glasgowcyclist]

I’m trying to replace the headset on my 2005 Trek 1000SL and I’m not finding it easy.

According to the specifications it is a semi-integrated headset but I can’t identify the correct replacement as the Cane Creek online tool doesn’t list my bike. I got the top bearings out fine, they’re 24 tiny things sitting inside an interface. The bottom set don’t want to come out and I’m reluctant to use any force. If someone could help me identify what I need to order and how I can get the bottom set out I’ll be very grateful.

I’ll attach some photos in a minute...

 

[Gravity Aided]

Bottom looks like a sealed unit. I haven't seen such, except on an old Bike-E that I had. I could see the sense in a sealed unit on a headset bottom bearing. A rocket tool may be needed to remove the top race as well as the bottom race/bearing.

 

[Gunk]

I just use a long flat head screw driver and carefully tap it out with a hammer. Or if you are just replacing the bearings, leave it in situ and clean the cup with wire wool. If you are replacing those caged bearings use loose ball bearings (just remember to miss about two out when you will the cup) they are so much smoother as they run on both surfaces.

 

[rogerzilla]

So do caged bearings!

 

[Gunk]

So do caged bearings!

one side is running against the cage, you’ve got built in friction, IMO ball bearing are much smoother, they’re just a bit more of a fiddle to fit

 

[raleighnut]

one side is running against the cage, you’ve got built in friction, IMO ball bearing are much smoother, they’re just a bit more of a fiddle to fit

I've had that where it seems to 'knife edge' the cage so it is gritty in one direction.

 

[Gunk]

I always used to use caged bearings, but my old fashioned LBS persuaded me to try loose bearings, they are definitely smoother. The headset and BB I've just stripped and rebuilt now move like silk.

 

[Rusty Nails]

Bottom looks like a sealed unit. I haven't seen such, except on an old Bike-E that I had. I could see the sense in a sealed unit on a headset bottom bearing. A rocket tool may be needed to remove the top race as well as the bottom race/bearing.
View attachment 531187

I've got one of those I made out of an old steel seatpost. It's got out dozens of headsets with no problems.

 

[glasgowcyclist]

If you are replacing those caged bearings use loose ball bearings (just remember to miss about two out when you will the cup) they are so much smoother as they run on both surfaces.

Are you referring to the top bearings in my 1st photo? How do I determine what size I need?

I just use a long flat head screw driver and carefully tap it out with a hammer. Or if you are just replacing the bearings, leave it in situ and clean the cup with wire wool.

In this instance are you referring to the bottom bearings in my 3rd photo?

I’m only doing this to sell it but I’d rather do it properly, despite the temptation now to just clean and regrease it all and put it back together.

On my old Trek 850 it was a damn sight easier, just an easily replaced cartridge top and bottom.

 

[glasgowcyclist]

Should I be trying to drift this part out from above?

 

[Gunk]

Are you referring to the top bearings in my 1st photo? How do I determine what size I need?



In this instance are you referring to the bottom bearings in my 3rd photo?

I’m only doing this to sell it but I’d rather do it properly, despite the temptation now to just clean and regrease it all and put it back together.

On my old Trek 850 it was a damn sight easier, just an easily replaced cartridge top and bottom.

just take the top cup to your LBS they’ll give you correct bearings

Most take 3,969 mm (5/32″) ball bearings

 

[glasgowcyclist]

just take the top cup to your LBS they’ll give you correct bearings

Most take 3,969 mm (5/32″) ball bearings

I’ll try that. These bearings are tiny, probably half the size you’ve quoted.

I’m still hoping someone can tell me there’s a sealed cartridge solution for both.