Removing and fitting a hub gear wheel

[gaz]

After my massive failure last night at replacing the inner tube in my rear tyre after a puncture.
My Main issue was the chain. I was loosening the chain tug(?) to loosen the tension so I could get the chain off. This caused a lot of problems later as I couldn't get it right after that and the disc brake kept rubbing.

Anyway my question is, should I leave all that alone and just use the quick link which my lbs put in today to get the chain off? That should solve the problems I was having.

 

[potsy]

I was going to ask you about this in your other thread about the new bike,seems like it's a pita to take the wheel off.
Maybe you need a hackbike style solid tyre at the rear

 

[gaz]

I was going to ask you about this in your other thread about the new bike,seems like it's a pita to take the wheel off.
Maybe you need a hackbike style solid tyre at the rear

It is certainly on my mind!!!

 

[Cheule]

I use my quick link on my chain all the time...on..off...on again, no fuss. Don't know how I managed without it for all those years!

 

[vorsprung]

It depends on the type of powerlink/ quicklink / joining link used

Some of them require that the chain isn't under tension before you can remove them

On my Roadrat I have horizontal dropouts and an Alfine but no chain tensioner

so I just need a large 15mm spanner to get the wheel out and do a puncture. Well to be exact the procedure is

1) switch gear to 1 and use small allen key and screwdriver to remove alfine cable from hub
2) open brakes using noddle
3) loosen tracknuts and slide wheel forward
4) unship chain from chainring
5) unclip mudguard from safety clips
6) tuck chain on outside of rear dropouts
7) move wheel backwards and out

Then once the puncture is fixed there is a similar operation in reverse to get it working again
Usually I have Marathon Plus on the bike to avoid this complicated and time consuming operation
In theory it is possible to remove the tyre without taking it out and patch the inner tube in situ

 

[gaz]

Switch to gear 1? I thought it had to be gear 4

 

[tyred]

In theory it is possible to remove the tyre without taking it out and patch the inner tube in situ

That's what I almost always do as none of my bikes have QR wheels. Just set the bike on it's side (or upside down if there is nothing on it to damage) and using your tyre levers, take of one side of the tyre only and pull the tube out. Find the hole, patch as required, run your fingers around the inside of the tyre to check for whatever caused the puncture and put it all back together again. The only thing that might make it difficult is brake calipers which don't have a QR feature as it can be tricky to get the tube out between the brake and the rim if the pads are set very close to the rim.

 

[P.H]

3) loosen tracknuts and slide wheel forward
4) unship chain from chainring

I'm not familiar with these sort of dropouts, but looking at this photo of Gaz's bike it seems like his wheel is aready well forward. Maybe it doesn't slide far enough forward to unship the chain and all that's required is an extra chain link and the wheel set further back?
http://farm5.static....6ec18d10e_z.jpg

And the title of the thread is misleading Not all hub gears are the same and the Alfine is the most awkward one I've had. Hopefuly Shimano have addressed this on the 11 spd.

 

[Moodyman]

Gaz - it's Gear 4 for Alfine, before you remove cable

It's sounds very complicated when you're used to quick release, but believe me it's deady easy once you've done it a couple of times.

Howard from Cycle Chat, made a very useful video - here's the link:


View: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rGEXjpXtw4g

 

[Piemaster]

I've been using gear one to remove cable.
I've been putting in #1 so getting enough slack to remove end of cable outer from the bracket (sorry, dunno exact term) thus giving plenty of slack to get cable end out. I'll give the video method a go next time though.
Having just adjusted the cable yesterday as it wasn't engaging 2 gears quite right, gear #4 and line up the 2 yellow marks for correct adjustment.

 

[Crankarm]

I would fit a Quick Link as a matter of urgency and buy a pair of chain pliers as well. You will not want to buy the chain pliers but once you have you will kick yourself for struggling for so long without them. Oh, Quicklinks! SRAM and Shimano interchangeable, only Shimano 10spd chains don't have Quicklinks as such but Shimano just provide replacement single use links. Must be because the 10spd chain is narrower. KMC chains I would use their own Quicklinks. I tried a KMC Quicklinks, the first was supposedly Shimano 9spd compatible on an Ultegra 9spd chain, the bugger was far too loose, hopeless; the 2nd was supposedly Campag 10spd compatible, far too narrow so couldn't close it. I did try swapping the two links over but no go either! Wipperman Connex Quicklinks are good, but they are rather pricey - £10 iirc. I have one on a Campag 10 spd chain as nothing else is available. Campag don't do a Quicklink as such, but their link is a single use link costing £14!!!!!

Anyway HTH Gaz. Sorry can't help you with the hub unless it's a Brompton hub.