rear puncture-how to get gears/wheel off
- Thread starter k turner
- Start date
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Andy in Sig
Vice President in Exile
- Location
- Sigmaringen, Germany
You don't need to take the gears off as they are permanently attached to the wheel. Get a book like Bicycle Technology by Rob van der Plas which tells you everything you need to know plus it's handy to have by you as you are actually doing the job.
Basically it's no different from doing the front wheel except you need the chain on (I think) the smallest cog so that you don't have to fight it back on. Somebody will no doubt be along in a bit with chapter and verse.
Basically it's no different from doing the front wheel except you need the chain on (I think) the smallest cog so that you don't have to fight it back on. Somebody will no doubt be along in a bit with chapter and verse.
Landslide
Rare Migrant
- Location
- Called to the bar
Apparently you're not the only one to have asked the tutor:
http://bicycletutor.com/remove-install-wheels/
(Admittedly, I can't view the video at work, but if you've any questions after watching it you can always ask again.)
The tip about putting the chain on the smallest sprocket is very useful.
When you refer to taking the gears off, I assume you mean the sprockets (cogs) on the rear wheel? The rear gear mechanism (derailleur) should remain attached to the bike.
http://bicycletutor.com/remove-install-wheels/
(Admittedly, I can't view the video at work, but if you've any questions after watching it you can always ask again.)
The tip about putting the chain on the smallest sprocket is very useful.
When you refer to taking the gears off, I assume you mean the sprockets (cogs) on the rear wheel? The rear gear mechanism (derailleur) should remain attached to the bike.
Landslide - yes you are right I didnt check the gears are indeed bolted on the frame not wheel which has a different nut.
I had to keep putting the chain on first bike, kept jumping off, so if I just take it off and put it back again after, wont any adjustments need to be made? My first bike went back to Halfords 3 times because the chain was jumping off! I dont know what they adjusted.
I was looking on bicycletutor under the wrong heading (blonde) I am sure it wasnt there a few weeks ago.
I had to keep putting the chain on first bike, kept jumping off, so if I just take it off and put it back again after, wont any adjustments need to be made? My first bike went back to Halfords 3 times because the chain was jumping off! I dont know what they adjusted.
I was looking on bicycletutor under the wrong heading (blonde) I am sure it wasnt there a few weeks ago.
swee'pea99
Legendary Member
Turn your bike upside down, resting on saddle & bars, then use your third hand to support it while you pedal and change gears to your smallest (highest) cog. Look for a lever on your brake mech that releases/tightens the brakes by a few mil, and release it (otherwise when you've fixed your p*****e, you won't be able to get the inflated tyre past your brakes). Then just release your quick release hub or loosen nuts, and wiggle your wheel till it comes out (it may need a thump or two if it's not been out for a while - look at the 'slots' the axle is sitting in to see where to thump it). then you'll find it's obvious - just disentangle the cogs from the chain and lift out. Fix your p******e, then do all that in reverse. One thing: when you put your wheel back in, check you've got it positioned right by tightening it lightly and giving it a spin - if it touches the brake pads, it may need adjusting till it doesn't. If the wheel *is* held by nuts rather than quick-release, tighten them sort of 'an hour' on this side, an hour on t'other and back again and so on till they're both tight - if you fully tighten one, then t'other, you'll find your wheel is completely askew.
One last last thing - before you do *any* of this, find out where the hole is....probably only one in three actually needs you to take the wheel off at all. If you can, just lever one side of the tyre off at roughly the right place, pull the tube thru' the gap, and fix it like that, then tuck it all back in.
I think that about covers it. Good luck!
One last last thing - before you do *any* of this, find out where the hole is....probably only one in three actually needs you to take the wheel off at all. If you can, just lever one side of the tyre off at roughly the right place, pull the tube thru' the gap, and fix it like that, then tuck it all back in.
I think that about covers it. Good luck!
Thanks Sweatpea, that was great, now I will watch that video along with your instructions to "see and hear". I did read that I could try just prying the puncture out without removing everything. I am hoping I get that type first, unfortunately tube blew at valve on front one day after I bought it 4 weeks ago. Only had first one 2 weeks before exchange, this one is definately better, much lighter and the right size, thin tyres as well. I can now do my whole mile to feed pony without stopping on hills. Working on twice a day now. Can only get half way at 6am, muscles not working that early lol.
John the Monkey
Frivolous Cyclist
- Location
- Crewe
I've done this (consequence of not taking the right spanner out on a guided ride). Trust me, taking the wheel off is easier!k turner said:
swee'pea99
Legendary Member
Nope.
Joe24
More serious cyclist than Bonj
- Location
- Nottingham
Its easy. Like Swee'pea99 says.
Flick it in the small chain ring, smallest sporcket. Undo the brakes with the lever, undo the QR on the wheel and lift the bike up by the saddle so you flick the back wheel down. Take it off from the chain.
I always find putting it in more tricky.
Flick it in the small chain ring, smallest sporcket. Undo the brakes with the lever, undo the QR on the wheel and lift the bike up by the saddle so you flick the back wheel down. Take it off from the chain.
I always find putting it in more tricky.
Landslide
Rare Migrant
- Location
- Called to the bar
I wasn't aware we had a zoo in Sheffield...k turner said:
