Rear light on SKS/ESGE guards

[chewa]

Has anyone ever wired these in?

If so, how die you do it?

John

 

[Smurfy]

Never done it, but I've heard the thing to do is run the wire inside the mudguard, and stick it with bathroom sealant.

 

[chewa]

Never done it, but I've heard the thing to do is run the wire inside the mudguard, and stick it with bathroom sealant.

I thought that, but wondered whether there was some way of using the metal foil part of the chromoplastic to conduct current

 

[Smurfy]

I thought that, but wondered whether there was some way of using the metal foil part of the chromoplastic to conduct current

I think some guards may be a metal foil plastic laminate, while others are painted silver on the inside. Never heard of anyone using the mudguard foil as a current path.

My guards have the correct mount (stud + screw) for some types of battery lights, but I never put it there for two reasons. Firstly I didn't want the extra weight on the guard, just let it do the rainwater and mud job. Secondly, I like to have my rear light at motorist eye level, rather than 1ft off the road, so it's seat post every time for me.

Edit: If you want to try, probably best to test things with a basic multi meter or continuity tester to see if it will work.

 

[2old2care]

I thought that, but wondered whether there was some way of using the metal foil part of the chromoplastic to conduct current

I believe that's how it should be done, with these mudguards, in conjunction with a dynamo.

 

[Davidc]

Yes. I've done it for a technically incompetent friend, exactly as @YellowTim says but using the black gunge called mastic to secure the wires. It's a dynamo light made by Smart, and I think that's as heavy as I'd consider* - I'm not sure how well the mudguard would support the weight of batteries. On that bike it's powered from the front light's battery pack.

I used 2 very thin PVC insulated wires and brought them out at the guard's frame bracket, with sleeving over them at the hole to stop chafing. Didn't try using the mudguard as a conductor.

Not sure I'd do it on my own bike though. I can see that it gets the light out clear so it can be seen, but it's a bit low down.

*edit: close in weight to the original reflector.

 

[chewa]

I used 2 very thin PVC insulated wires and brought them out at the guard's frame bracket, with sleeving over them at the hole to stop chafing. Didn't try using the mudguard as a conductor.

Not sure I'd do it on my own bike though. I can see that it gets the light out clear so it can be seen, but it's a bit low down.

.

Thanks. I have attached a light before, but it did eventually crack the guard (as you picked up).

I also agree with you about the height of the light. I was just thinking of it as a backup to my backup to my backup!! When I'm in full winter dark night mode I have lights on my seatpost, rear of the rack, occiput strap and (if I can nick one of the dogs' flashing collars, also round my right ankle)

Might seem overkill, but it didn't stop me getting smacked in a hit and run, so the more the merrier.

 

[andrew_s]

I thought that, but wondered whether there was some way of using the metal foil part of the chromoplastic to conduct current

I have seen it done, using the foil in a side section of the mudguard as the "live" conductor, and connections to it via small brass rivets at either end. The stays are connected to the centre section of the foil, as is the light, so that it does duty as the earth contact in a single wire setup.
Suitable mudguards have the internal foil divided into three sections, longways, giving two narrow transparent bands.