Rear hub

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Location
North West
Dropped my rear wheel out just to practice with mud guards on in case of punctures. It's a single speed Genesis. When I rotate the axle by hand it feels a little stiff. I expected it to spin up easily and freely, be really loose I suppose. Am I right to think this ?
 
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rideswithmoobs
Location
North West
image.jpeg
Rear wheel
 
The cones need adjusting. QR axles are adjusted to be a little slack, which is taken up when the axle is compressed. Solid axles are under tension, so should be adjusted to just right, with no extra slack.
Leave the drive side alone and adjust on the non-drive side. Check the amount of grease, if it is sparse, add some to both sides.
 

e-rider

Banned member
Location
South West
I would say that if it was 'overtight' it wouldn't run smooth
However, without feeling it myself it's impossible to tell
 
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OP
rideswithmoobs
Location
North West
The cones need adjusting. QR axles are adjusted to be a little slack, which is taken up when the axle is compressed. Solid axles are under tension, so should be adjusted to just right, with no extra slack.
Leave the drive side alone and adjust on the non-drive side. Check the amount of grease, if it is sparse, add some to both sides.

It's a through I axle. I put a spanner on the drive side nut to hold it and turned the non drive side about 1/8th of a turn. Immediately I can spin it clockwise/anti clockwise between my fingers so much much better. I tried to post up a video from my phone but wouldn't let me. Adjusting the nut doesn't effect the chain line ? need to check out some on line videos for removing rear spindle to check it's been assembled with enough grease.
 
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OP
rideswithmoobs
Location
North West
I would say that if it was 'overtight' it wouldn't run smooth
However, without feeling it myself it's impossible to tell

On rides when the bike freewheels at speed the tick tick from the hub is not constant it's like for example when a buckled wheel hits and misses the brake pad when rotating at speed. Crap description I know, or a washing machine getting ready to spin, wuur wuur wuur :blush:
 

e-rider

Banned member
Location
South West
On rides when the bike freewheels at speed the tick tick from the hub is not constant it's like for example when a buckled wheel hits and misses the brake pad when rotating at speed. Crap description I know, or a washing machine getting ready to spin, wuur wuur wuur :blush:
the tick comes from the freewheel rachet, not the bearings though
 
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OP
rideswithmoobs
Location
North West
the tick comes from the freewheel rachet, not the bearings though

Crap description, sorry e rider. The tick is constant from the ratchet but the noise the rear makes is like something sticking, tightens then free, tight, free so kinda sounds intermittent not smooth. Maybe just the cones a little too tight. They feel more like I would expect now. It ached my fingers trying to rotate backwards and forwards after a few minutes before
 
It's a through I axle.
It is a solid axle, not a thru-axle.
To remove the axle, just unscrew all the gubbins on the non-drive side and pull out from the drive side.
For fine tuning, I cheat a bit. usually you turn the NDS locknut as you hold the NDS cone. I turn the NDS locknut as I hold the DS nut. You need to use fine increments of 1/16 of a turn or finer.
 
OP
OP
rideswithmoobs
Location
North West
It is a solid axle, not a thru-axle.
To remove the axle, just unscrew all the gubbins on the non-drive side and pull out from the drive side.
For fine tuning, I cheat a bit. usually you turn the NDS locknut as you hold the NDS cone. I turn the NDS locknut as I hold the DS nut. You need to use fine increments of 1/16 of a turn or finer.

Great minds and all that. I cheated tool :okay:
 
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OP
rideswithmoobs
Location
North West
Last dumb question of the day. The track end adjusters were mounted inside the frame dropouts and the 15mm axle nut outside. Have they been assembled correctly or should they be outside with the 15mm axle but tightening against them ?
 
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