Rear brake caliper problem

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Panter

Just call me Chris...
I've had an ongoing problem with this, but as I've just fitted new pads I thought I'd try and get it sorted out properly.
Basically, when I pull the rear brake, the caliper doesn't return to the "unpulled" position when the brake lever is released. Or rather, it does return, but only slightly so one of the pads still rubs on the rim.

I've taken the caliper off, soaked it in petrol, and then in oil so it's working nice and freely. Refitted it, and I have the same problem.
If I don't tighten the retaining bolt properly, then the pads release better, but of course the caliper sits to one side so that a pad rubs on the rim anyway!
Anything I can do? this is driving me up the wall!

The caliper is a Shimano sidepull jobbie
 

Angelfishsolo

A Velocipedian
I've had an ongoing problem with this, but as I've just fitted new pads I thought I'd try and get it sorted out properly.
Basically, when I pull the rear brake, the caliper doesn't return to the "unpulled" position when the brake lever is released. Or rather, it does return, but only slightly so one of the pads still rubs on the rim.

I've taken the caliper off, soaked it in petrol, and then in oil so it's working nice and freely. Refitted it, and I have the same problem.
If I don't tighten the retaining bolt properly, then the pads release better, but of course the caliper sits to one side so that a pad rubs on the rim anyway!
Anything I can do? this is driving me up the wall!

The caliper is a Shimano sidepull jobbie


Taken from http://www.sheldonbrown.com/rim-brakes.html#centering

Centering Adjustment
When the brake is released, the brake shoes retract away from the rim. Ideally, the shoes on both sides should back off by the same amount. If they don't, the brake is not properly centered. In extreme cases, one of the shoes may not retract, and may rub on the rim even when the brake is not being applied. If a brake appears off-center, check first that the wheel is installed straight in the frame/fork. If the wheel is crooked, and you maladjust the brake to compensate, you are creating two problems where there was only one before.

If the brake is, in fact, off-center, it is often the result of too much friction on one of the pivots. Unhook or loosen the cable (the transverse cable, on a cantilever or centerpull brake) and try moving each brake arm individually by hand. They should move smoothly and freely, and always come to rest near the same position. If you suspect friction, unscrew the bolt that holds arm to the boss or pivot, and remove the arm. The surface of the pivot should be smooth, free from rust, and coated with grease. If it is rusty, that is usually a sign that the bicycle was sloppily assembled by the dealer who sold it. Use emery cloth or sandpaper to remove the rust, and wipe off the dust and sand. Coat the boss or pivot with grease, and re-install the brake arm.


Spring Adjustment
If your wheels are centered, and your brakes are not, and, if the pivots are properly lubricated and free-moving, the brake shoes should be centered. If they are not, you probably need to adjust the spring tension on one or both sides Different types of brakes feature different systems for adjusting the springs.
  • Most caliper brakes can be centered by rotating the entire brake assembly around the bolt that attaches it to the frame or fork. Loosen the nut that secures it, and hold the bolt steady, with a wrench if possible, so that it does not rotate as you retighten the nut. On some older and cheaper caliper brakes, including those on many English 3-speed bicycles, the return spring is rigidly attached to the spring block, which fits between the brake arms and the frame or fork. The spring block has a concave surface to mate with the convex surface of the frame or fork. It does not rotate with the brake arms. These brakes can be centered only by bending the spring or repositioning the brake shoes.
 
C

chillyuk

Guest
Is it a single or double pivot calliper? If a single calliper it may be that the centre nut on the calliper side of the mechanism is too tight, so that when you tighten the fixing nut you also tighten the calliper arms. If a single pivot, try loosening the nut a half turn. this will allow you to secure the mechanism to the frame without overtightening the pivot. Also have you checked the cable.
 
OP
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Panter

Panter

Just call me Chris...
Many thanks both, greatly appreciated.
I cannot strip the thing down as the I can't get the nuts or allen key nuts (is that what they're called?) to turn. There are some very small grub screws under each thread which I suspect are locking them in position and I don't have a key small enough to get those out.

I've left it soaking in oil and thoroughly cleaned the cable and it is slightly better. It still rubs the rim when released, but only slightly and with a little vibration it quickly releases to a point where it doesn't rub so it's vastly improved.
I'll get some small allen keys and have another go at it next weekend.

I assume it's a double pull caliper? picture below:

IMAG0300.jpg
 
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chillyuk

Guest
It is a double so totally disregard what I wrote. :hello:
 
OP
OP
Panter

Panter

Just call me Chris...
Ok, thanks, at least I know what I'm dealing with now
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Funnily enough, this is the second caliper this as happened to, I guess it's just ideally placed to collect all the crud from the rear tyre.
I may just replace it at some point, when I finally get around to getting some mudguards!
 

potsy

Rambler
Location
My Armchair
What about loosening the brakes off a bit does that help?
I find I hardly use my rear brakes anyway so would try having the pads well away from the rim.
 
OP
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Panter

Panter

Just call me Chris...
They area about as far from the rim as I can get them, trouble is, soon as you brake and release, they only retract a couple of mm's instead of returning to where they should be.
It's perfectly rideable though, just need to sort out the skipping gears after my service yesterday....
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There are some very small grub screws under each thread which I suspect are locking them in position and I don't have a key small enough to get those out.

Yes, that's right, you need to get the grub screw out to dismantle it.

I'd say that it most cases like this, unless the caliper is seriously old and knackered, the problem is in the cable outer or inner (or both).

If you haven't replaced the outer/inner for some time you might want to give that a go.

That recently fixed the same problem for me on my commuter.
 

Angelfishsolo

A Velocipedian
Yes, that's right, you need to get the grub screw out to dismantle it.

I'd say that it most cases like this, unless the caliper is seriously old and knackered, the problem is in the cable outer or inner (or both).

If you haven't replaced the outer/inner for some time you might want to give that a go.

That recently fixed the same problem for me on my commuter.

For the cost of a new inner and outer it would be a good investment.
 
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