Ratchet spanner sizes - overhauling bottom bracket

[alicat]

Hi all

My Giant Expression N3 (town bike) has performed faultlessly for over seven years. Now that my fettling skills have improved, I have decided to overhaul the bottom bracket.

The crank bolt seems to need a 14mm socket wrench to remove it, something that I do not possess.

Lidl have a set on offer at the moment. Do I need a 1/4", 3/8" or 1/2" ratchet spanner? How does the sizing work?

I do have a crank puller to get the cranks off once the bolt has been freed.

If I am best off leaving well alone altogether, feel free to say so!

Thanks

 

[stephec]

The inch sizes quoted refer to the size of the stud on the ratcheting spanner, (and also the hole in the individual socket), that the socket sits on.

If you look on the right hand side of the bottom row of sockets you'll see an adaptor that is used to fit the smaller holed sockets onto the spanner.

So if there's a 14mm socket in that set then it should do the job.

 

[stephec]

After reading the advert a bit more carefully it seems that there are different sets available, make sure you get a spanner, all the sockets, and it might be worth getting an extension bar in case it comes in handy in future.

 

[alicat]

Thanks for the info.

Let's hope they still have some in when I go at midday!

 

[compo]

If you have to buy a crank extactor anyway, many of them incorporate a 14mm and15mm socket on the tool to undo the crank bolt. Unless you want a set of sockets for other work you could save a few bob.

A 1/2 drive ratchet will give you the widest choice of accessories if you decide to expand your tool kit in the future, although a 3/8ths is plenty good enough for bicycle repairs.

Edit: Just re-read your OP and see you already have the extractor so I assume it doesn't have the socket on it.

 

[grumpyoldgit]

Never buy,or use ,inferior quality tools,it will cost you dearly in the end.
Note the I didnt say cheap,because there are some very good cheap tools out there,likewise a Campagnolo bottom bracket spanner is made of Swiss cheese,& costs the GDP of China,ask me how I know

 

[compo]

Never buy,or use ,inferior quality tools,it will cost you dearly in the end.

I have to agree with that. Lots of cheap spanners and socket are not accurate in their sizing even if they don't bend under use! Screw drivers that twist the blades or Phillips that just round of the shanks. I buy tools as I need them then buy the best I can afford and over 50 odd years have built up a decent tool kit. My grandaughter is looking at an apprenticeship in a garage and I have promised her the lot if she stays with it through to her second year. I don't use most of the tools any more.

 

[grumpyoldgit]

A decent tool kit does not come cheap,& should be looked after.Socket drawer of my toolbox

 

[alicat]

Compo

The crack extractor I have doesn't have a driver with it.

I agree about using inferior quality tools having just returned a set of Allen keys to Maplins where neither the 1.5mm nor the 2mm fitted the nut. Is it possible to buy a 14mm socket bit on its own?

 

[alicat]

Just found this - a Park Tool 14mm Crank Bolt Wrench Tool

Just need to find one in a LBS near me...

 

[compo]

You can buy the individual sockets. Halfords, most agricultural merchants, car spares shops and the such like. Just make sure you dont get a socket too thick to fit between the head of the bolt or nut and the inside of the crank. (been there, done that).

 

[tyred]

For bike use only, I would go with 3/8" drive as they are lighter, smaller and easier worked with.

A quality 3/8" set will cope with most car tasks too.

I have bought quite a few tools from Lidl and have had no complaints. probably might not be up to dedicated garage use for for the DIY home mechanic, they should be good enough.

 

[grumpyoldgit]

The two most common sizes of fixing there,are 14mm & 15mm.I would always use a single hex socket,otherwise known as a six point,on these.Once undone & out of the way,screw in your crank extractor until it is bottomed out,or tight-ish,do not overtighten as you may damage the threads.Next ,tighten the middle bolt until it is under a bit of tension,tap the end of the bolt firmly with your brass hammer,or use a steel hammer with a bit of brass or aluminium,to avoid damaging the extractor.Even cranks that have been stuck for 40 years will surrender to this method.Good luck,& enjoy it,it is very satisfying.

 

[tyred]

The two most common sizes of fixing there,are 14mm & 15mm.I would always use a single hex socket,otherwise known as a six point,on these.Once undone & out of the way,screw in your crank extractor until it is bottomed out,or tight-ish,do not overtighten as you may damage the threads.Next ,tighten the middle bolt until it is under a bit of tension,tap the end of the bolt firmly with your brass hammer,or use a steel hammer with a bit of brass or aluminium,to avoid damaging the extractor.Even cranks that have been stuck for 40 years will surrender to this method.Good luck,& enjoy it,it is very satisfying.

Yes, single hex is preferable to bi-hex in virtually all cases. Much less likely to take the corners of the nut.

 

[grumpyoldgit]

Especially the thin nuts,or set screws used on the cranks.