Raleigh Pioneer Trail 21 Speed - Needs some new bits.

[JimJam13]

Hi,
I'm new to Cycle Chat but I'm hoping someone on here can help with some advice with my Raleigh Pioneer Trail 21 Speed Hybrid.
I bought it new in 1997 and it's been a great bike. I've had to do very little maintenance to it over the past 23 years but now it needs some new components.
Unfortunately because its so old it's not straightforward trying to source direct replacements.
Ideally I want to put on a new compatible 7 speed cassette, free hub, chain, derailleur, crank, bottom bracket and front derailleur.
The 7 speed grip shifters are fine as is everything else.

I thought this would be easy to do, but it's not as straightforward as I thought. I've managed to source a new 7 speed cassette, the free wheel hub is no longer available but I think I can recondition the old one.
Trying to get a new triple crank and keep the 'chain line' straight is a bit of a headache because it has to tie in with the other running gear ie Derailleurs etc.
The Shimano triple cranksets I've found all require a 122mm Bottom Bracket and yet the original is 110 mm.
Any help or advice would be much appreciated.
I've included a few photos. I've already stripped the bits - its just waiting new ones

 

[raleighnut]

Try Spa cycles, BTW that's a beauty

 

[wafter]

Nice - welcome to the forum

SJS Cycles seem to carry a fair bit of vintage kit so might be worth a look.

 

[DCLane]

Raleigh Pioneer's are popular on here as they last and are good bikes. Mine's a 1996 Trail 21 which has been updated for use in local town rides / bad weather commuting.

I ended up fitting a different bottom bracket, front derailleur and crankset to mine as I wanted a 48 tooth largest chainring. The rear derailleur's findable but as 'new old stock', a replacement 7-8 speed is easy as many will fit: I'm using an 8 speed Shimano Acera on mine with Shimano trigger shifters since the RH old gripshift gave up.

The freewheel should still be available; it'll be a 14-28. The freehub's a Shimano RM30 and still available from SJS Cycles: https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/hub-spares/shimano-fhrm307-cassette-freehub-body-y3cc98050/

 

[JimJam13]

Thanks everyone for the warm welcome and for taking the time and trouble to send your replies with all your advice and information. I really appreciate it.
I'm a complete novice at the more intricate parts of cycle maintenance but I really want to have a go at doing this myself.
Thanks DCLane you've already done what I want to do. But even though my Pioneer was made a year after yours the rear free wheel hub mount is a different design. My Freewheel hub is the 3AP9802 and I can't find a new one anywhere. But I have managed to recondition the old one. The RM 30 is exactly the right spec apart from the actual hub mounting. I've taken a picture to show you below.
Funnily enough I was looking at the Shimano Acera drivetrain and thought it would be a good upgrade and now knowing that you've successfully fitted an Acera rear derailleur it's looking like a good choice. Here's the combination that I've been looking at:
Acera Crank Set M361 - 3 chain ring suitable for - 7/8 speed
Acera Rear Derailuer RD-M360 - 7/8 speed
Acera Front Derailleur FD-M360 - 7/8/21/24 Speed
Acera Cassette CS HG41-7 - 7 Speed

My question is will they all fit on my Pioneer and work ? I'm sure they'll all fit but can I get the middle chain ring on the crank crank lined up with the 'Chain line' and then will the new front derailleur line up with all three chain rings ?

The Crank set is apparently compatible with a BB-UN26 68mm x 122 mm Bottom Bracket, my old one is 68mm x 110 mm.
If I fit a 122 mm Bottom Bracket it will put the chain line out by quite a bit.
Would it be OK to fit a shorter bracket - 117 mm ?

But if I do this will the new chain rings line up with the new front derailleur ?

The current front derailleur is 28.6 mm. The Acera Front Derailleur is 31.8 - 34.9 which means I'll have to get an adapter ring to fit it onto the frame which isn't a problem - the problem is will the derailleur then line up OK with the inner and outer chain rings ?

I think the Acera will work OK with the grip shifters.

Any ideas how I measure this all up to make sure it lines up and works ?

Cheers,

Jim

 

[SkipdiverJohn]

Raleigh Pioneer's are popular on here as they last and are good bikes.

They certainly have their fans, me included. I have a 1995 Trail 18 speed with one of the last of the lugged Reynolds 501 frames. Picked it out of a bike junkpile in a slightly neglected state for a tenner nearly 3 years ago and it's now well sorted and my first choice go-to bike for leisure rides. I look after it and don't leave it parked anywhere dodgy.

Out on a test ride after I upgraded it with roadster bars for improved comfort.

 

[Marc semper]

Hi,
I'm new to Cycle Chat but I'm hoping someone on here can help with some advice with my Raleigh Pioneer Trail 21 Speed Hybrid.
I bought it new in 1997 and it's been a great bike. I've had to do very little maintenance to it over the past 23 years but now it needs some new components.
Unfortunately because its so old it's not straightforward trying to source direct replacements.
Ideally I want to put on a new compatible 7 speed cassette, free hub, chain, derailleur, crank, bottom bracket and front derailleur.
The 7 speed grip shifters are fine as is everything else.
View attachment 540467
I thought this would be easy to do, but it's not as straightforward as I thought. I've managed to source a new 7 speed cassette, the free wheel hub is no longer available but I think I can recondition the old one.
Trying to get a new triple crank and keep the 'chain line' straight is a bit of a headache because it has to tie in with the other running gear ie Derailleurs etc.
The Shimano triple cranksets I've found all require a 122mm Bottom Bracket and yet the original is 110 mm.
Any help or advice would be much appreciated.
I've included a few photos. I've already stripped the bits - its just waiting new ones
View attachment 540468 View attachment 540470 View attachment 540472 View attachment 540473 View attachment 540474

What is the price value of this specific frame today as it's seems to be in great condition.

 

[JimJam13]

Hi Marc,
I'm not sure what the value would be today but the frame is still going strong after almost 25 years. I do about 25 miles a week on it and I'm upping that as I've put in for the London to Brighton Bike Ride which is in June. That's 54 miles, I know the bike will be fine but I'm not sure about me ! I can recommend them - they are well built like an old Volvo and similarly easy to maintain.

 

[Cycleops]

You’ll be absolutely fine on the London to Brighton Jimjam. You can take it at whatever pace you like and there are plenty of watering holes along the way .

 

[T4tomo]

The Crank set is apparently compatible with a BB-UN26 68mm x 122 mm Bottom Bracket, my old one is 68mm x 110 mm.
If I fit a 122 mm Bottom Bracket it will put the chain line out by quite a bit.
Would it be OK to fit a shorter bracket - 117 mm ?

The spindle length (i.e the 122/110 etc) will depend the design of the crankset, so two different cranksets could well put the middle chainring in the same place but off two different spindle lengths, so definitely be guided by what the crankset instructions say is the correct BB.

As its a 68mm shell, then you have a good choice
i.e. https://www.spacycles.co.uk/m16b0s110p4792/SHIMANO-Square-Taper-Bottom-Bracket-BB-UN300

As for choosing a crankset, be a bit guided by shape of the cranks you are removing. not so much of an issue on 7 speed, but with later hybrid / mtb with wide set chain stays the crank arms curve out a bit to clear your heels from striking the chainstays.

As for exact mm length, you can get away with a mm or 2, but 5 mm will mean the middle chainring is well off centre to the cassette centre and hence you might well get front derailleur rubbing you cant "index out" when the chain is up that far end of the cassette. Plus if you are too far out on your BB length, the range of the front derailleur movement wont overlap with where the chainrings are.

BTW - nice looking frame, the silver colourway is a good base to add subtle accents to.

BTW if you get any front brake judder with that long drop from the brake hanger to the canti's then this little fella and a bit of re-cabling work is your solution.
https://www.spacycles.co.uk/m7b0s101p1809/TEKTRO-Front-Uphanger-For-Cantilever-Brakes

 

[Marc semper]

Hi Marc,
I'm not sure what the value would be today but the frame is still going strong after almost 25 years. I do about 25 miles a week on it and I'm upping that as I've put in for the London to Brighton Bike Ride which is in June. That's 54 miles, I know the bike will be fine but I'm not sure about me ! I can recommend them - they are well built like an old Volvo and similarly easy to maintain.

Hi Jim would you consider selling yr Raleigh pioneer ?

 

[JimJam13]

The spindle length (i.e the 122/110 etc) will depend the design of the crankset, so two different cranksets could well put the middle chainring in the same place but off two different spindle lengths, so definitely be guided by what the crankset instructions say is the correct BB.

As its a 68mm shell, then you have a good choice
i.e. https://www.spacycles.co.uk/m16b0s110p4792/SHIMANO-Square-Taper-Bottom-Bracket-BB-UN300

As for choosing a crankset, be a bit guided by shape of the cranks you are removing. not so much of an issue on 7 speed, but with later hybrid / mtb with wide set chain stays the crank arms curve out a bit to clear your heels from striking the chainstays.

As for exact mm length, you can get away with a mm or 2, but 5 mm will mean the middle chainring is well off centre to the cassette centre and hence you might well get front derailleur rubbing you cant "index out" when the chain is up that far end of the cassette. Plus if you are too far out on your BB length, the range of the front derailleur movement wont overlap with where the chainrings are.

BTW - nice looking frame, the silver colourway is a good base to add subtle accents to.

BTW if you get any front brake judder with that long drop from the brake hanger to the canti's then this little fella and a bit of re-cabling work is your solution.
https://www.spacycles.co.uk/m7b0s101p1809/TEKTRO-Front-Uphanger-For-Cantilever-Brakes

Hi T4tomo
Sorry for not replying earlier - just to say thanks for all your information regarding the crankset and bottom bracket. In the end I got a new bottom bracket, new chain, new cassette, a new freewheel hub, a new pair of rear derailleur dolly wheels and new gear cables. It took a while to find all the parts but with the help of the internet managed to find them.

I was also experiencing front wheel judder when braking - I thought initially that the front brake blocks were causing the problem but after reading your handy tip and getting the front brake hanger you suggested the problem was solved - thank you.

I did the London to Brighton bike ride on it last year and with all its new bits it went like a dream. All the gear changes up and down were slick and precise and I just flew along. It easily held its own with machines barely a quarter of its age. I really enjoyed the experience and would recommend it - a good fun day if you've got a well maintained bike.

 

[JimJam13]

Hi Jim would you consider selling yr Raleigh pioneer ?

Hi Marc,
Errr No... As long as I can get parts for it I'll keep it. It is such a great bike, good on tarmac and gravel.
They are strong and well made and if you're patient spare parts can be found on the internet.
I'd suggest just keeping an eye out on ebay or gumtree they do pop up occasionally just be prepared that you'll have to do some work to it but trust me it'll be worth it.

Just out of interest what would you have given me for it ??? One careful owner since new with reconditioned transmission.

 

[craigwend]

Not as nice as yours but £65.00


https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/19536004...irXOxF8f1oc7n9Vbr8ox8VE_SyNQV0_0aAuU8EALw_wcB