Raleigh Model
- Thread starter Adamh2009
- Start date
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SkipdiverJohn
Deplorable Brexiteer
- Location
- London
Could it also possibly be a Connoisseur? I would have a look at the Sturmey Archer hub gear casing first for a date stamp, and then the frame number. If you can identity the build year, you can probably cross reference it against an old Raleigh catalogue. Nice bikes, those Raleigh 3-speeds, right up my street.
raleighnut
Legendary Member
- Location
- One of the 'Elite'
Looks very similar to how my Raleigh 'City' was when I got it with the exception of the forks.
Hello, sorry been away for a while. It is indeed a Courier. Here is the frame number. Since I was last here I have found out the rear wheel had been replaced with an aluminium one and there is all sorts of horrific bodge jobs that had been done to it, including a chain which is 2 links too short. So I bought a replacement pair of chrome steel wheels and rebuilt the rear wheel with a Sturmey Archer 3 speed dynohub. I've replaced the chain with one of the correct length and given it a clean and some new tyres and inner tubes. It now rides like a dream. I've gone from knowing nothing about bikes to all this! I've attached the frame number if anyone can decipher it.
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SkipdiverJohn
Deplorable Brexiteer
- Location
- London
I think that is the part number for the bottom bracket shell rather than the frame number, which could be on the seat tube somewhere. The other number was stamped after the frame was painted and appears to be the owners postcode in Chandler's Ford.
raleighnut
Legendary Member
- Location
- One of the 'Elite'
You'd have been better off fitting a matching Aluminium front wheel, good luck braking in the rain with Chrome rims.
I'd rather keep it as original as possible, I'm trying to undo the wrong!You'd have been better off fitting a matching Aluminium front wheel, good luck braking in the rain with Chrome rims.
That's very interesting to know thank you! I will try and find the frame number tomorrow. As a former car mechanic and a current aircraft mechanic, I'm handy with the tools, but not so much with the bike knowledge
raleighnut
Legendary Member
- Location
- One of the 'Elite'
I converted my Raleigh 'City' mentioned earlier not only to Aluminium rims but changed the wheel size to 700c* this also meant I could get rid of the awful bent steel brake calipers and fit nice Ally ones too, I like to be able to stop.I'd rather keep it as original as possible, I'm trying to undo the wrong!
* 700c is slightly bigger than 26" but smaller than 27"
It stops fine actually, took it down a big hill yesterday evening. I think this may be due to the lip having worn over the years. I do have an issue though. Ever since I've bought it the back wheel keeps twisting in the frame to the same side and the tyre catches the frame. Following a Park Tool video I correctly mounted the wheel, set the chain tension and I have tightened the nuts to various torque figures, starting at 25nm which seems to be a standard figure, up until it feels like something will break if I go any further.
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How loose is the hub in the dropouts?, you may need some serrated shims/washers between the dropouts and the cup and cone lock nut, just to take up the slack.
SkipdiverJohn
Deplorable Brexiteer
- Location
- London
I would be inclined to check the alignment of the frame, to make sure that the rear stays are where they should be in relation to the centre line taken through the main triangle.
Edited to say that the fact the rear wheel has been replaced would make me suspicious that the bike has been involved in some sort of incident that might have misaligned the frame. It takes a fair bit of force to total a steel 26" roadster rim!
Edited to say that the fact the rear wheel has been replaced would make me suspicious that the bike has been involved in some sort of incident that might have misaligned the frame. It takes a fair bit of force to total a steel 26" roadster rim!
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