Quick Release.

[Rollon]

Sorry for a very basic question, but I had my first puncture last week, and took the front wheel off to fix it.
It wouldn't drop out at first so I slackened the plastic nut a few turns.
Putting the wheel back on, I re tightened the nut but found that the quick release lever was too hard to turn up.
I released the nut a turn or two and managed to flip the lever up, however I noticed a squeaking coming from the front wheel afterwords and fear I have still got it too tight.
How hard should it be to flip the QR lever, open and closed?
Dave.

 

[Globalti]

You should release the wheel by unflipping the lever, you might then need to unscrew the little plastic cone in order for the QR to clear what are called the "lawyer lips" on the fork dropouts. If your brakes have them, there are little camming levers on the cables, which when lifted will open the brake caliper and let the tyre pass.

When refitting the wheel either rest the weight of the bike on the axle so that the wheel centralises itself or do it upside down. Note how the two little conical springs help to equalise the QR axle in the hub. Check that the lever is in the open position (concave side out) and tighten the plastic cone until it just nips up. Then close the lever so that it pulls the QR shut by camming action. You may need to adjust the plastic cone one way or the other to get it right but your are aiming to finish with the lever closing with three or four strong fingers of pressure. The lever should now be convex side out, pressed against the fork leg. Don't forget to close the cable tightening jobbie as well.

 

[zacklaws]

As mentioned previously for safety it is better to ensure the lever is up against the fork or the stay so that it is a bit harder for it to be accidently opened if it should catch on anything, but be carefull that if the lever is clamped very tight then it becomes difficult to open as you cannot get your fingers behind the lever to open it. And if you have a carbon frame and it happens, then you cannot get a screwdriver for example to help lever it open in case you crack the carbon. But all skewers are different so it may not apply to all, but I know the Bontrager ones that I have are a problem. If it does happen though, just get some string and thread it behind the lever to help pull it open

I know because I'm always having this problem, but I have eventually learned to just offset it slightly to the frame so I can at least get one finger behind.

 

[Spinney]

Have you got the wheel aligned properly?

 

[Rollon]

Thanks for the advice. I omitted to mention it was on a mountain bike with disc brakes.
Dave.

 

[Crankarm]

It should be tight enough that it leaves a (temporary!) mark on the palm of your hand when you've done it back up.

And not red bumps under your ears trying to close it .

 

[Willo]

As a mechanically challenged, relative newbie, I've had to remove/replace the wheels of my road bike a few times since getting it last November. I initially found myself tightening the nut too much until I developed the confidence that re-engaging the quick release lever sufficiently set the wheel firmly in place. As others have said, I set it up so that it's not too tight so as to require a herculean effort to prise it open when a visist occurs out on the road.

 

[hotmetal]

It sounds like the disc could be rubbing, which means the wheel isn't quite sitting straight. Once you've got the tension right (QR lever/nut on the other side), undo the QR, wobble the wheel and get it straight, then flip the QR shut.

Another possibility is that you've got gunk on the disc or pads during the puncture repair. Doing a QR up too tight should not induce any kind of squeak in and of itself.