Problem with BB plastic cup

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Manonabike

Über Member
The square taper BB plastic cup will not go all the way in, it's stop about 3 threads short and that is causing problems I think. Today I realised that the left crank was loose and it shouldn't be as I tightened it to specs. I removed the BB to find that dirt had got in (only done under 400 miles since newly installed) I have an old metal cup that will fit all the way but it's too thick to work with the cartridge.

Can I seal around the gap with some kind of sealer? Or should I just buy a new BB again (it seems cups are more expensive than the whole cartridge :-) )
 
Loosen the other side up a couple of turns and retry it. When I changed my last BB I had a similar issue, tightened up the drive side all the way and then the other side would not go in all the way.

I loosened the drive side a bit and then all was well.
 
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Manonabike

Manonabike

Über Member
Well, I always fit the non drive side first so further investigation reveals that the cup does go in all the way, however, when fitting the drive side in the cartridge pushes the cup on the other side out. I made sure it had plenty of lubricant to help the join of cup and cartridge but it makes no difference.

The question is how tight does the non drive side needs to be? At the moment it's finger tight as using the BB tool would only make it go round and round.

The other side it's fine at 130Nm

I'm beginning to think this is a problem with the BB. I'm thinking that if I leave it like that then the crank will work itself loose again (the BB must have a little play under pressure)

If I were to buy a cheap BB (only one I can find with a metal cup) would the cup work with my current BB?
 

Sleeping Menace

New Member
Location
UK
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Manonabike

Manonabike

Über Member
Are you really tightening a BB to 130Nm?? isn't that a bit excessive??

I can't find a single manufacturer who suggests exceeding 70Nm...most suggest staying below 50... What BB are you doing that to??

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The bicycletutor website says 25-30 foot-pounds and the conversion says 111 - 133 Nm..... is that right?
 

rualexander

Legendary Member
Just a thought, is this a new BB that you're trying to fit, if so, is it the right size?
A 73mm BB will leave you with 5mm of thread showing when fully tightened in a 68mm BB shell.
Other than that idea, make sure that the shell threads are nice and clean.
 
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Manonabike

Manonabike

Über Member
Just a thought, is this a new BB that you're trying to fit, if so, is it the right size?
A 73mm BB will leave you with 5mm of thread showing when fully tightened in a 68mm BB shell.
Other than that idea, make sure that the shell threads are nice and clean.

It's a 68mm BB for a 68mm shell.

I have an old metal BB that goes in all the way but it's too thick to work with my current BB. The current cup will go in all the way, as long as it does not make any contact with the cartridge. The cartridge inserted from the other side will push the cup out.

I think I have no choice but to get a new BB.
 

Zoiders

New Member
Not being funny but you are doing it the wrong way round, Shimano shaved the flange off the left cup at one stage to stop people getting it confused with the right hand side cup which is the fixed position cup that you fit first, in fact the right hand side is fixed in place on the cartridg in most cases these days.

Put the right in first, wind it all the way in, then insert the cartridge if it's not already an all in one unit with the right hand side cup, then wind the left hand side cup down on to it until you have a happy medium between it being tight and not binding on the cartridge bearing. The right hand side cup is the one taking all the torque and locking that BB in place, the left hand just stops it contacting the BB shell under drive by supporting it. You can partly fit the left first as a receiver and guide for the cartridge as you thread it in from the right if you like but you must not wind it all the way in.

It is perfectly normal for part of the left hand side cup to stand proud by a few threads, brute forcing it in to be flush is acting like a worm drive and pushing the right hand fixed position cup out, if you keep doing that you will kill the threads on the cup. You should not be needing anything but a smear of grease with metal cups and effectively none at all with plastic ones as they are already Delrin/PTFE impregnated plastic, PTFE tape should not be needed.

Also check you are not mixing and matching cups from other manufacturers, some brands look the same and take the same splined tool but are just that bit smaller on the internal diameter.

I suspect you are having problems getting your BB's to stay put because you have been doing it the wrong way round, you have effectively been damaging the threads on the cups so I am not surprised you have experienced problems with them unwinding, keep fitting them the wrong way round and forcing the right hand cup home last and a metal cup could make the actual BB shell thread go baggy as well.
 
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Manonabike

Manonabike

Über Member
Not being funny but you are doing it the wrong way round, Shimano shaved the flange off the left cup at one stage to stop people getting it confused with the right hand side cup which is the fixed position cup that you fit first, in fact the right hand side is fixed in place on the cartridg in most cases these days.

Put the right in first, wind it all the way in, then insert the cartridge if it's not already an all in one unit with the right hand side cup, then wind the left hand side cup down on to it until you have a happy medium between it being tight and not binding on the cartridge bearing. The right hand side cup is the one taking all the torque and locking that BB in place, the left hand just stops it contacting the BB shell under drive by supporting it. You can partly fit the left first as a receiver and guide for the cartridge as you thread it in from the right if you like but you must not wind it all the way in.

It is perfectly normal for part of the left hand side cup to stand proud by a few threads, brute forcing it in to be flush is acting like a worm drive and pushing the right hand fixed position cup out, if you keep doing that you will kill the threads on the cup. You should not be needing anything but a smear of grease with metal cups and effectively none at all with plastic ones as they are already Delrin/PTFE impregnated plastic, PTFE tape should not be needed.

Also check you are not mixing and matching cups from other manufacturers, some brands look the same and take the same splined tool but are just that bit smaller on the internal diameter.

I suspect you are having problems getting your BB's to stay put because you have been doing it the wrong way round, you have effectively been damaging the threads on the cups so I am not surprised you have experienced problems with them unwinding, keep fitting them the wrong way round and forcing the right hand cup home last and a metal cup could make the actual BB shell thread go baggy as well.

Not being funny but you either misunderstood my post or I did not make it clear enough.

I normally fit BB like this: Non drive first (finger tight) this normally goes a bit more than half way but never all the way.... the only way to do that is by using a BB tool.

Having said that, in this case I began to try all kind of things to get it to work and as it happens, I fitted the non drive side all the way to test the BB shell and threads on the cup ( both working correctly) - on this occasion I left the cup all the way in before I fitted the drive side with the same result as before.... (this is not the way I fitted the BB first time round)

I did not use lubricant for the thread part of the plastic cup but for the inside, where contact is made with the BB.


As I said before, the fault was with the BB..... fitted a new cup ( finger tight) went in nearly all the way, maybe 6 threads short..... then the drive side, all the way in, followed by tightening the non drive side. Both sides look fine now. After 50 miles ride everything is ok.

The bottom line, you are right, some people could easily fit the left side all the way but I was showed to do it the way I described before and I never had a problem.

Thanks for your post anyway, I'm sure it is useful information.



Andrew_s oooppps, looks like I was overdoing it, thanks god it's not a carbon frame :tongue:
 
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