Pitted bearing races in hubs

[Oldfentiger]

I have a pair of vintage wheels, and the rear one feels notchy while turning the axle.
It's a Sachs hub which, when stripped, looks decent quality. I degreased and cleaned the races, but on one side the bearing race is slightly pitted. Having discovered I could knock the race out I'm now wondering whether I can source a replacement race or cup or whatever it's called.
The balls are looking OK, but in any case they are easy to source.
So that's my question to you more knowledgeable chaps.
Are they available?
If so, what do I need to identify about them?
Who sells them?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Yellow Saddle]

No, they are not available.

 

[Oldfentiger]

No, they are not available.

Thanks for the reply.
Is there any method to refurbish the existing one?
I have a lathe in my workshop btw.
Are they hardened, or case hardened?
Maybe I could spin the race in the lathe chuck and use an appropriately sized ball grindstone in a dremel, for example.
It would be a shame to scrap the hub for the sake of a bit of effort.

 

[Drago]

If its only slight, fill the pitting with araldite and rub it down smooth.

 

[Yellow Saddle]

Thanks for the reply.
Is there any method to refurbish the existing one?
I have a lathe in my workshop btw.
Are they hardened, or case hardened?
Maybe I could spin the race in the lathe chuck and use an appropriately sized ball grindstone in a dremel, for example.
It would be a shame to scrap the hub for the sake of a bit of effort.

No there is no method for doing this. Quality races are hardened throughout and polished afterwards. Cheap ones are polished first and then case hardened. You 'll notice the difference in colour to say which is which.

Forget about refurbishing. Just clean, put new balls in and go.

 

[Oldfentiger]

No there is no method for doing this. Quality races are hardened throughout and polished afterwards. Cheap ones are polished first and then case hardened. You 'll notice the difference in colour to say which is which.

Forget about refurbishing. Just clean, put new balls in and go.

Thanks both for your help

 

[tyred]

Just rebuild it and adjust it as best you can. Unless you intend covering serious mileage it will be fine.

 

[raleighnut]

Where is the pitting, bearings run on a very small 'contact patch' on the race.

 

[Oldfentiger]

Where is the pitting, bearings run on a very small 'contact patch' on the race.

The pitting is in the ball track. I've cleaned it up in the lathe with some fine emery cloth, and at least it looks a bit better now.
New 1/4" steel balls ordered. Half the price from motorcycle parts supplier than anyone connected with cycling btw.
I'm sure it'll be fine - just an engineer who's been taught to do things right I suppose.

 

[Yellow Saddle]

The pitting is in the ball track. I've cleaned it up in the lathe with some fine emery cloth, and at least it looks a bit better now.
New 1/4" steel balls ordered. Half the price from motorcycle parts supplier than anyone connected with cycling btw.
I'm sure it'll be fine - just an engineer who's been taught to do things right I suppose.

I'm sure your hubs will be just fine once you have new balls in there and adjusted it so that it has play off the bike but none on the bike. That method is important.
Not all balls are created equal and thus not the same price.
High-end Shimano and Campag balls are Class 20 whereas cheaper balls are only Class 100.

 

[Oldfentiger]

I'm sure your hubs will be just fine once you have new balls in there and adjusted it so that it has play off the bike but none on the bike. That method is important.
Not all balls are created equal and thus not the same price.
High-end Shimano and Campag balls are Class 20 whereas cheaper balls are only Class 100.

Thanks.
Useful info regarding steel balls.
I was visiting the SKF factory in Luton, back in the mid 80's. When in the assembly area I spotted many large boxes of steel balls, supplied by a Japanese manufacturer.