Looking at the Arkose 1 today for Mrs C and was pretty impressed, all round good bike. The brakes were the immediate weak point. They really felt quite poor, Tektro Spyres, so I was wondering whether they can be improved or to spend the extra and go for the Arkose 2 with hydraulic brakes. You also get some other upgrades, 10 speed, next jump in equipment levels but, as far as I know, you can't fit cross brakes to hydraulics, which is another consideration. In all respects the Arkose 1 is fine. It might need some gearing adjustment but only the brakes were a concern.
Page may contain affiliate links. Please see terms for details.
Pale Rider
Legendary Member
Mmm, internal cable routing, loads of bosses - including two for a down tube Flinger.
Looks a nice bike, and a good blank canvas for accessories if that's what you want to do.
Roadie brakes aren't my thing, but I understand there's another make of cable actuated hydraulics which are a bit neater - and possibly cheaper - than Spyres.
Ah, here we are, Juin Tech, and I think they might be available in different colours.
http://www.bikeradar.com/road/gear/...ipers/product/juin-tech-r1-disc-brakes-50248/
Looks a nice bike, and a good blank canvas for accessories if that's what you want to do.
Roadie brakes aren't my thing, but I understand there's another make of cable actuated hydraulics which are a bit neater - and possibly cheaper - than Spyres.
Ah, here we are, Juin Tech, and I think they might be available in different colours.
http://www.bikeradar.com/road/gear/...ipers/product/juin-tech-r1-disc-brakes-50248/
The next Arkose up the 2, is only an extra 150, which is the cost of those brakes. I was more thinking of different pads as it wouldn't be worth buying new mechanical brakes. Other changes I'd make would be the same on either bike, mudguards, gearing, brake reach adjustment etc...
Pale Rider
Legendary Member
A good, cheap and effective upgrade for any disc brake is a larger rotor.
No point in worrying about the back, so you would only need one for the front.
The bike has 160mm rotors, the next size up - 180mm - would make a noticeable difference.
It should bolt straight on, I believe there are only a couple of mounting standards.
Edit: You may need spacers and longer bolts for the calliper, but both are widely available.
No point in worrying about the back, so you would only need one for the front.
The bike has 160mm rotors, the next size up - 180mm - would make a noticeable difference.
It should bolt straight on, I believe there are only a couple of mounting standards.
Edit: You may need spacers and longer bolts for the calliper, but both are widely available.
Last edited:
Precisely. The stopping power was some way short of even caliper brakes. It could be some use would soon bring things up, which is why I've asked.
I would just pay the extra for the next model but I'd like the option of the cross levers as Mrs C has carpal tunnel. Now one of the reasons of going for drop bars is the hand position may actually suit her better and lessen this. The trouble is, we don't know, so it's all a bit suck it and see. She'll struggle to brake with reduced feeling and poor disc brakes though.
Drago
Legendary Member
- Location
- Suburban Poshshire
Were the discs clean and the pads properly bedded in? They're usually OK brakes
Well it was brand new, I doubt they were bedded in. My experience of discs is that they work well from the off normally.
Cycleops
Legendary Member
- Location
- Accra, Ghana
Agree, there must be something wrong somewhere. If you were trying a new bike in the shop they won’t have bedded in yet. Spyres are excellent brakes. Maybe also not adjusted properly.
I was hoping to hear that they were well considered, that at least gives me some hope I can improve them.
- Location
- Somewhere wet & hilly in NW England.
@Crackle
I think @ianrauk uses these brakes on one of his bikes and rates them highly if I remember rightly.
Tbh I've never had any disc brakes work well from the off and I've done the usual up to a fair speed then brake down to just above stopping speed and repeat 20 or 30 times thing before they've worked properly.
Andrew_P
In between here and there
I have had cable disc brakes and hydro. I would never go back to cable. Hydro so far is literally from new until worn out adjustment free. I forever had rub, when no rub barely any braking with cable ones. I would bet who ever set it up did it so there was no rub.. I did have BB5 though which are pretty well known for difficulty setting up.
I've only ever had BB5 and BB7. The 5's were dreadful. The 7's are very good.
- Location
- Somewhere wet & hilly in NW England.
@ianrauk
Sorry my mistake - I know someone on here rates them highly. Thought it was you. Clearly my old brain cells are failing me today.
As I suspected and other posts confirmed there's a high chance they weren't bedded in properly. Honestly those brakes (when in proper working order) do not warrant any upgrade needs. They will be highly sufficient for your missus.
They do not require better pads, better rotor or even a bigger diameter rotor. The most effective thing you can do to your brakes is service them properly & have your pads in good order.
Out of all of my disc calipers & regular brake calipers, the most currently hard-stopping brake I own are the Infamous avid BB5s, so even a bad quality brake can indeed stop fast and hard when you need it too.
Do not get overly paranoid about your brakes being insufficient, trust me, they are perfectly fine.
