Paint advice

[Neddy]

Do any forummers have any tips for re-painting a vintage bike? I'm not looking to restore it to pristine condition, just trying to make it look presentable. I'm sure there are specialist paints available, but is standard automotive paint suitable? What about Hammerite? Spray can or brush? And how much existing paintwork should be removed before starting?

 

[tyred]

Preparation is the key. If the original paint is basically sound, you could get away without removing it but it's probably best you do. Treat any rust with something Hammerite Kurust or Jenolite. Make sure it is fully degreased, a motorfactors should be able to sell you panel wipes to do this or else use a clean rag with some thinners on it.

Hammerite will work but I prefer Japlac. Brush is fine if you use a good quality brush and have the surface well prepared, don't rush and ensure it is properly dry between coats. Unless you have a very good, dry garage with heating, I wouldn't paint it on damp days.

 

[sidevalve]

tyred is pretty spot on. Preparation is the key, rub it down smooth [close your eyes and rub your fingers over it, if you can feel a ridge or bump you will see it whatever else you do]. Use thin coats and rub down with fine wet - dry [used wet] between. It's not hard to get a nice finish, just takes a bit of care. You can use hammerite but it doesn't like being painted over with anything else if you decide you don't like it [it all has to come off] and it will look like what it is, a bunch of tubes painted in hammerite.

 

[fozy tornip]

What about primer/undercoat on the bare metal, or is that catered for by the coat of rust-proofer?
And thinners?, is there any merit to thinning your topcoat if you're building up layers and rubbing down in between? And if so what would you thin with, and in what proportions?

 

[Gareth]

What about primer/undercoat on the bare metal, or is that catered for by the coat of rust-proofer?
And thinners?, is there any merit to thinning your topcoat if you're building up layers and rubbing down in between? And if so what would you thin with, and in what proportions?

Do you have a compressor and spraying gear?

If so start with a bare metal frame and use a filler primer, an undercoat, 3 coats of gloss paint and rub down with a very fine wet & dry paper between coats.

Then depending upon which paint route you have chosen; Cellulose or synthetic, a coat or two of a nice clear coat lacquer.

If you want very hard wearing durable paint then go for a synthetic 32 Agricultural enamel. Sparex and vapormatic are very good places to start.

 

[fozy tornip]

Gareth, thanks for taking the trouble. I'm not being obtuse, merely know bugger-all about this and would like to know more, so if you could see your way to helping with a few supplementary q's i'd be v grateful.

Do you have a compressor and spraying gear?

No: does brushwork entail a completely different approach?

If so start with a bare metal frame and use a filler primer,

A metal specific filler primer? A rust retardant filler/primer? Such as?

an undercoat, 3 coats of gloss paint

Standard domestic gloss and undercoat? Same drill as for skirting boards, say?

There's stuff on the net, but invariably some element is left ambiguous to the total neophyte. Dialogue is helpful.

 

[Pennine-Paul]

Don't put hammerite anywhere near a cycle frame,it's fit for painting metal
garden gates and the like,horrible stuff to use brushed or sprayed.

Cellulose all the way,colour then a lacquer

 

[Gareth]

My advice would be to rattle can spray the frame ..... in an area with of plenty of ventilation: 3 years ago I brush painted my bike trailer with hammerite dark blue in the living room of my flat and Lois found me passed out from the fumes 2-3 hours later.

Any car type rattle can of cellulose filler primer, and under coat from the usual outlets will be suitable for base coats onto bare metal. For the top coats there is a great range of cellulose gloss colour paints and clear lacquers available, but my preference for a single bicycle frame refurbishment would be to use a large rattle can of synthetic agricultural enamel; this kind of topcoat will go down properly on cellulose primers and undercoats and is exceptionally tough and extremely hard wearing, but allow it at least 48-72 hours to fully cure and harden before assembling the bike.

OK, the range of colours available for Agricultural machinery is a little limited, but there are a few good'uns out there. I spray an awful lot of JCB Yellow, Caterpillar (Sand) yellow, David Brown Chocolate brown, John Deere Green, Brunswick Green, and my particular favorite; British Leyland Dark Blue.

 

[sidevalve]

Just a thought if you do decide to use cans try a small patch on a bit of scrap first, just to make sure the paints don't react and bubble. Even cellulose from different makers sometimes does this [no idea why but I've seen it]. Anyway it's worth a try just to be safe.

 

[tyred]

TBH, I wouldn't use rattle cans aimed at the car market. It will give a nice finish but this type of paint is very fragile and easily chipped. Most of them are water based nowadays and the quality of the paint is inferior (but healthier to the user) to what it used to be.

 

[Nigelnaturist]

Another thought is etching primer for your base coat, I used to use it on Landrover panels. (being an aluminium alloy normal primers didn't adhere to well, also has a benefit on steel in that, it takes longer for a scratch to revel rust under the paint)

 

[lip03]

recently started a re spray of an old mtb i have got the best results (best i can get in my garrage!) from completely stripping the frame of all old paint, best way to do that i found to be nitromors and a wire brush and a hell of a lot of elbow grease!! then go over with a wire brush drill attatchment to remove any surface rust. then a thourough clean with de-greasent or white spirit. now you can paint! lol use a good quality primer (i used plastikote) and do at LEAST 3 COATS and rub down with wet/dry sand paper between coats that way you'll get a good finish with your final colour. obviously follow instructions and drying times on the can! then follow your final colour coat with a clear coat to make it all shine (also put ant decals on before you do the clear coat) if you take your time and follow spraying instructions on the can you'll get a great finish i learnt all this from watching videos on you tube here is a great one to watch its a series but link is to the first one


View: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gCFO2l63qdk



hope this helps

 

[steveindenmark]

Another avenue is to call in at your local, friendly car sprayer and ask him if he could put a couple of coats on for you next time he is spraying a car. They always have a bit left. All you would have to do was prep it.

I did exactly this with a vintage motorbike I was restoring. "If you are going to paint a red car give me a shout," I said.

It came out a treat and was cheap. It also helps if they like the bike to begin with.

Preparation is the key. You hear it all the time and if you are like me, you disregard it. I will tell you something. "Preparation is the key", believe it.

Steve

 

[biggs682]

preperation is what its all about so unless you have the time and room and equipment then forget doing it yourself , i have just had 2 frame sets sand blasted and 2 coat powder coated for aprox £75 , which i think is a good price for whats involved

 

[Teuchter]

It came out a treat and was cheap. It also helps if they like the bike to begin with.

Looks good but I think I prefer your Guzzi California!