Pain in the Knees

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mattyashy

New Member
I've recently got back into cycling as part of my daily commute to uni, work and also for pleasure. One thing that is concerning me, which I've never noticed before is the pain I feel at the top of my patella when cycling. Is this to do with technique, or the actual bike? I use a mountain bike...
 

tyred

Squire
Location
Ireland
I would look at your saddle height first. Your leg should be more or less straight at the bottom of the pedal stroke as a rough guide. Any lower, and it can be harmful to your knees. Also, try using a lower gear.
 

swee'pea99

Legendary Member
Also, you're older than when you used to ride and that does make a difference. Try not to push it too hard, certainly at first.
 

MajorMantra

Well-Known Member
Location
Edinburgh
Is your seat perhaps too low? That puts a lot of extra strain on your knees. If both your feet can touch the ground when you're sitting then your seat is definitely too low.

Matthew

EDIT: Tyred posted faster.:smile:
 
two things that can cause pain in your knees are 1) having the seat too low, or 2) trying to push too high a gear.

Your seat should be up high enough so that your legs are more or less - but not quite - straight at the bottom of the pedal stroke.

You should use a low enough gear so that you're not having to push really hard on the pedal but can "spin" the pedals quite freely. It's often recommended that you should be doing 90-100rpm (revolutions per minute) on the pedals, but others prefer a higher or lower speed than that. Really, what you feel most comfortable with is probably best but don't be struggling along in a high gear.
 

Chris James

Über Member
Location
Huddersfield
You are probbaly just over doing it a bit. The cold won't help either.

If I have had a lay off from my bike and step up distance dramatically then I feel it in my knees.
 
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mattyashy

New Member
I keep my cadence at a reasonable level most of the time, and the saddle height may be a bit too high. In the last week I've really jumped back into it with a 10 mile cycle back home at the weekend. Think the cold is just playing up with the joints - I haven't been squatting at the gym for a while, so the legs may be in a bit of shock.
 
tyred said:
I would look at your saddle height first. Your leg should be more or less straight at the bottom of the pedal stroke as a rough guide. Any lower, and it can be harmful to your knees. Also, try using a lower gear.


+1 all most

If you put your heel on the pedal at the bottom of the stroke your leg should be straight with out forcing it. If you do that you will be 99% there in getting your seat the right hight. Which sounds like the cores of the pain.
 
P.S. Welcome
 
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mattyashy

New Member
Thanks - I'm really looking to get into cycling. Get some good use out of this bike, then get a road bike in a few months when I've saved enough up.
My Grandad used to cycle everywhere, never had a car, cycled well into his 70's and lived well into his 90's. A role model for me to follow.
 

Randochap

Senior hunter
Another way to establish saddle height is to take your standover height (inseam) and use the formula: inseam (cm) x .883 The resulting measurement will indicate the distance between the centre of the bottom bracket spindle and top/middle of saddle. Should get you within a cm of ideal.

Obtain your inseam by standing with feet 6" apart in stocking feet. Press a hard spine book against your crotch (pressure like saddle), and using the end as a square, make a mark on a wall at the top of the book spine. Measure from floor to mark. This measurement will also aid in choosing your road bike.

Pain at the top of patella almost always indicates a saddle too low.

Do you use clipless peddles? With or without, your foot may be positioned incorrectly on the pedal.

As others have said, keep gearing low.

More tips @ VeloWeb.
 

skwerl

New Member
Location
London
Randochap said:
Another way to establish saddle height is to take your standover height (inseam) and use the formula: inseam (cm) x .883 The resulting measurement will indicate the distance between the centre of the bottom bracket spindle and top/middle of saddle. Should get you within a cm of ideal.


how does that take crank length into account?
 

briank

New Member
skwerl said:
how does that take crank length into account?

well it doesn't, but that's a whole other can of worms and, to be fair, he does only say it's to within a centimetre; the usual range of crank variation is only half that.
 
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