One Inch Headset Die

[Hugh Manatee]

Hello everyone. I have spent two years looking for suitable forks for my crash damaged Graham Weigh. I thought I was there but it turns out a small section of threads are damaged.

Would this section be improved enough by running a tap down it? Does the average LBS still have such tools? Is this the thing I would need?

https://www.tracytools.com/taps-and-dies/cycle- taps-dies?product_id=983

Forks are not Raleigh! The seller has offered me a refund but I really want to get the bike back on the road.

 

[Smokin Joe]

Any bike shop should have a tool for that.

 

[tom73]

I don't know every thing about bikes but I know about tap and dies. M dad used them just about daily at work and helped him/ watched him at home using them and still have.
Yes that's what you need I take you have die holder?

 

[Yellow Saddle]

The answer is no. If there is no meat, a die cannot cut a thread. That steerer is ruined.

 

[midlife]

Might get away with a very short stack height headset and cover the knackered threads with a spacer? New steerer tube about 60....and then paint

 

[raleighnut]

Might get away with a very short stack height headset and cover the knackered threads with a spacer? New steerer tube about 60....and then paint

Yep, a headset/spacers that miss out that bit of thread would be my attempt too, can't really tell until you've got it in the frame with the top race on but not the locknut.

I'd give it a try.

 

[Hugh Manatee]

Thanks everyone. I kind of felt in my bones that the forks were FUBAR. I will try fitting just in case I'm lucky with the spacing.

In the meantime, if anyone finds a set of 1" threaded forks in 531 with an eyelet and 200mm or more of steerer.......

 

[CXRAndy]

You could go all engineering, but it will probably cost more than sourcing a new fork.

Either cut away top section, sleeve the joint with new pipe and cut thread. Or weld new metal around damage thread section, grind/machine diameter and cut threads

 

[Yellow Saddle]

Y Or weld new metal around damage thread section, grind/machine diameter and cut threads

This will work and save the paint. However, I'd braze, rather than weld. All you need now is a brazer, with a lathe, and the right steerer die. Now it is a matter of value.

 

[rogerzilla]

Different s/h fork is quite cheap. Get a chrome one and forget painting it.

 

[Hugh Manatee]

Different s/h fork is quite cheap. Get a chrome one and forget painting it.

By a cruel quirk of fate, the forks are chrome. The supply seems quite thin on the ground.

 

[rogerzilla]

They come up on the Bay Of Thieves a lot. Don't be put off by a JIS one as it's easily cut down to ISO. Offset is pretty standard for all road racing forks, too.

 

[SkipdiverJohn]

My inclination would be to use a different fork, unless the head tube height means your new fork is long enough to be able to cut off the damaged section and use good threads.
Thread dies are not magic repair tools, they cannot restore strength where metal is already missing. All they do is remove excess material and burrs that are preventing a nut being fitted. 1" dies are not small and if split type, need a large die holder which is not cheap. A hexagonal die nut that size would be a simpler solution, but die nuts are not adjustable for fit whereas split dies are. The engagement of the nut on the steerer might end up either looser or tighter than desired, most likely looser. Adding metal is not really practical as it requires a lot of heat if done using gas, or if welded electrically, the weld deposit will likely be too hard to easily machine afterwards, especially if MIG is used.
TBH, I think you are being overly picky about your choice of fork, and for the sake of getting the bike back in service, you would be better off sourcing a large sized and cheap 1" gas pipe road frame and cannibalising it for it's forks. You would also then get the headset nuts included, so could reassemble it on your frame irrespective of what threading standard was used on the donor frame steerer tube.